Topic: Jerkmobile - On to the next adventure

[jutes]

Nice job on the filing, just be sure to use a click type torque wrench instead of the click type elbow when you install those bad boys.

Torques....on exhaust bits? Unnecessary.

[teacherman]

Torques....on exhaust bits? Unnecessary.

As long as you like doing things twice! 

[snackers]

According to FSM, all the bolts relating to exhaust (headers, UP, turbo, DP) are spec'd to 26ft-lb.
I know there are places it will be impossible to get a tq wrench into.

[snackers]

Header and UP sprayed yesterday and today.
Should be all good for install this weekend, now that the gaskets showed up.

Also, some final bits showed up today.



IBthatkeywontworkonyourcar

Tried to install the new shifter a couple times now.
That uckfaying thing can go kick itself in the balls then jump off a cliff and die in a horrible mushroom cloud fireball.

[snackers]

Checklist for myself.

Based on someone successfully doing this before, I will follow these steps. (Sorta cause I don't feel like lifting the motor)

When we installed my headers we put the uppipe on first, then the header, then tightened the uppipe to the turbo, then uppipe to headers hand tight, then headers to heads hand tight.  Then torqued down the uppipe to header joint, then torqued down the headers to the head.

DP install (existing or new catted)
Front grill badge.
Ebrake tighten.
OEM shifter install.
"Rear badge" removal.
License plate bracket replacement.
I/C spray pump replacement, fill, test.
"Learn" the Prosport gauges (push buttons, watch spin, listen to beep)
Program my own presets on the radio.

Lots of this crap won't get done, but it's a list.

[Tenacious_B]

^ I are not responsible for any potential fail from my advice. 

[snackers]

^ I are not responsible for any potential fail from my advice. 

That can't possibly happen.
I'm copying your car.
If your car works, so will mine.

[pistachoo]

"Learn" the Prosport gauges (push buttons, watch spin, listen to beep)
Program my own presets on the radio.

GrantC and jer will want to help with these list items.

[snackers]

Pics from the spray.
It was warm enough to open the garage door and get some light in.



I got the UP in, and the header actually up and mounted.
They are just sitting there loose at the moment until I get everything lined up and ready to tighten.
Top bolt on the 3 bolt header > UP flange is being a real prick right now, and doesn't want to make things easy.
I got cold and stabby, so I'll attempt this again tomorrow.

UP in place.
Header in place.
o2 threaded in and tightened.

Wire needs to be wound back through the engine bay.
Top bolt needs to be put in.
Then tighten everything in order above.

[mudferret]

Nice job on the wrap.  I may wrap my DP when warmer weather rears its head.  Any other issues to address before you can enjoy the drive again?

[snackers]

Not really. The header/UP leaks were the main reason for this wrap job.
The other stuff in the list above is just "stuff that needs to get done" but won't prevent me from driving it.

[snackers]

More pointless updating because I feel like it, and because stuff happened.

Header, UP are bolted in and "torqued".
o2 sensor wire needed a bit of "manipulation" due to the position on the maddad header. The original o2 sensor was mangled, bent, and appeared to have been forced to work without proper thought. I fingered I should do it properly (unlike other things on the car)
This was one of the reasons I bought a new sensor anyways. The code could have been leaks, or could have been a failing sensor.
Anyways, the wiring is better now.

I was waiting for a possible catted downpipe before putting on the one I have, but it seems that isn't going to work out. So I'll put the catless one back on tomorrow.

Upon cleaning the midpipe flange, I discovered that someone has bastardized it.
Fantastic.



Yup. Lobbed off the existing end, and tacked on a flat flange and extension.
You know how when you buy a used car and expect that a magnet will stick to "metal" surface on said car, but then the magnet falls off indicating that surface is not entirely metal? And then you think "hmm... maybe I don't want to know the story about that..."
I'm wondering exactly how much further I want to investigate this car...
Denial might mean more happiness.

Shifter still isn't in. I don't know why a shifter is perplexing me so much, but it's being a real prick. I haven't even kicked a door on this car yet, and it's fighting back.

I cleaned the cone filter. Maybe that will make it feel better and more trusting of me.

[snackers]

Good news!

...everything is all buttoned up, mostly.
Exhaust is on and tightened.
I remembered to put the intake cone back on.
The front STI badge is on.

Shifter is back in, temporarily. I broke down and just ordered a new forking thing from subaru.
Damn thing is metric, and neither greggs or acklands have metric roll pins.
In the meantime...




...yeah, that's how I roll. With a 1.5" piece of coat hanger.
When I removed the thing in the first place, there was no upper o-ring on the "white plastic fingers", and the white plastic fingers were busted into 3 pieces.



So the next part I'm looking for is a regular o-ring. Hopefully partsource or crappy tire has the proper size, and hopefully that fixes the slop in the shifter. Otherwise I'll need to order the stupid white plastic fingers.

I haven't actually started the thing, and the excuse I'm gonna use is the shifter.
Mostly though, I'm scared.
All this uckfaying work, I'll be pissed right the uckfay off if I start it up and it leaks like a screen door on a submarine.

[pearl boxer]

I have a complete stock STI shifter c/w linkage, pivot bushings, front and rear stay bushings.  No shift knob.  0 miles on it.  I know you don't need everything but that's the way I want to sell it.  Gotta figure out what it's worth, but let me know if you're interested in it.

[snackers]

I have a complete stock STI shifter c/w linkage, pivot bushings, front and rear stay bushings.  No shift knob.  0 miles on it.  I know you don't need everything but that's the way I want to sell it.  Gotta figure out what it's worth, but let me know if you're interested in it.

I don't think I'll need it, but thanks for the offer.
All I need is the roll pin (which has now been ordered) and an o-ring.
If I need the basket, it's only a couple bucks from the stealer. Not really worth buying the whole assembly.

[snackers]

Well THERE'S your problem.

[steveb0t]

Note to self, don't run IC Water Spray pump when the tank is empty.

Should you maybe check the lines to see if they're blocked before pressing that button for the first time when things thaw out?

[snackers]

I suspect this is more dueto the jdm "always on" spray switch that was put in. Probably turned on and forgotten.

[snackers]

An update.
All is back together.
I took it for a spin the other night, and no CELs popped up.
After everything cooled, I gave all the exhaust nuts and bolts a tightening and took her out again tonight. No CELs.
Seems to be all good.

But of course I can't have a good thing without a bad thing.
Something is wonky with the boost gauge.
I haven't checked the sensor yet. All the vacuum/boost lines are fine, however.
Maybe I bumped a wire.


Or maybe it's just a crappy prosport gauge.
It does the sweep fine, and it is smooth when pressures change, vacuum to boost and vice versa.
Only happens when it's idling.
I haven't actually looked at romraider either. Maybe it's the car itself. Doubtful.

[Zaider]

Are RPM changing at all when that happens?

[bejamin]

I had prosport gauges for about 5 minutes. i washed the engine bay, not even thinking about it and got water in the crappy sender unit. Afterwards my gauge bounced around like that, a little more erratic than yours though. It's more than likely the sender unit making the gauge bounce. I also had an oil pressure gauge that worked twice.
I found they were really cheap looking, feeling and temperamental. Do yourself a favour and either get a better gauge or just take it out. They aren't worth the stress. Just my 2 cents. 

[snackers]

Are RPM changing at all when that happens?

No, it only happens when the car is idling.
When I'm moving and the pressure is changing (into boost, out of boost) or if I hold the throttle steady (cruising down the street at a constant speed) it doesn't do that.

As for "prosport consensus" in general, I've read many opinions like that.
It doesn't bother me that much, other than I can hear the stepper motor when it happens.
I'm pretty sure (though not entirely) that it didn't happen before all my header work and fiddling around in the engine bay. This is why I think maybe I bumped the sender or a wire.

Short story is, they came with the car, they're in a ricer A-pillar gauge pod, and I don't know how they're wired in (yet).
So I'd have to get a replacement OEM A-pillar piece if I want to remove them, and I'm a little bit too lazy at this point in time just to get rid of a gauge I don't really look at.

[Airboy]

what does it read when you are driving or coasting in gear?

[snackers]

I did some further testing with it today.
It's random. Leads me to believe it's the sender or the gauge itself.

- It happens in idle, car out of gear. It jumps around, about 5inHg in each direction, depending on temp, centering around 15inHg. (so, jumps between 10 and 20)
- It can happen during coasting or engine braking, flutters between 0 and 10inHG. Doesn't seem to do it when it's cold, but does when it's warm (engine)
- It can happen during constant throttle or "cruising". Depending on the RPM and gear, it flutters anywhere between 10inHG and 5psi of boost. That's right. It flutters from vacuum to boost during constant throttle.
- A couple times, it showed 5psi during constant throttle. Based on speed, RPM, road incline, I know it should NOT have been in boost when it was showing boost.

I need to use my tactrix to compare the two (and will once I get it back from borrower) but I'm fairly convinced it's still the sender or gauge.

[GrantC]