Author Topic: Project SLo STi - Back to Stock and for Sale (Read 9002 times)

Slotato · « **Reply #150 on:** May 24, 2012, 10:51:17 PM »

That sucks, when are you pulling it out?

deedz · « **Reply #151 on:** May 24, 2012, 11:21:50 PM »

It doesn't mechanically prime at all or doesn't engage electrical to prime at all?

Mischief · « **Reply #152 on:** May 25, 2012, 07:28:56 AM »

So i drove home from work and it worked fine, got changed then headed out and about 4 blocks away it started to stumble then died out. I turned the car off and went to prime it all and noticed the pump wasnt making noise. I checked the fuse and it was okay but I replaced it anyways, still nothing. Eddy stopped by and we took the rear bench off and the cover for the pump. We re-connected the 2 plug-ins that are outside of the pump enclosure and that did not solve it.

We towed my car back to my house where I took the pump assembly apart and re-connected the 3 connections inside (plug from top of pump to top of enclosure, 2 at the top of the enclosure), put it back together then what do you know it works. I let the car idle for about 30 seconds then I revved it up a few times at which point it stuttered then shut off again. The pump didn't prime again last night or this morning so I am starting to think it is electrical..

The obvious guess is there is some sort of bad connection with 1 of the 3 plugs inside that pump enclosure, which one will be tough for me to figure out since I suck at electricity.. but at least its the weekend so I have some time to figure it out.

deedz · « **Reply #153 on:** May 25, 2012, 10:11:28 AM »

I'm sure you already looked, but did any connector pins get bent? Did you give each connector wire a decent pull from the back of the connector to make sure none are in fact lose? All your original connectors could be fine, and their connector could be faulty. I don't know these pumps much at all, but isn't the connection point integrated into the top mold of the pump? When you say not priming do you mean not actually activating to prime the lines, or just that it's activating but not priming fuel? I assume you mean not activating at all. A good check is to find your fuel pump relay when you turn the key to just before turning over you should feel or hear the relay click. I'm no help from up here cause if there I could bring a multi-meter over and start troubleshooting for you.

Reason I asked the question in the previous post is because if you were hearing the pump activate via the solenoid then the priming problem could have been mechanical such as a suction point on the pump assembly or so on. I had this happen on the fuel pump on my truck only 30,000km or so after I had replaced it, pump wasn't priming properly but the truck would run but with restricted power obviously. All that had happened was a small hose in the pump assembly had fallen off it's port and it was even hard to notice at first.

I've done a couple in that darn truck, the last two which included that one were ebay pumps, NEVER again. I spent over twice the cash this time and it's been fine (sorry a little off topic as it doesn't concern your situation...haha).

With all being said if your car was fine with the stock pump and isn't right after the new one was put in a greater chance the pump should just be sent for warranty as much as that suck.

deedz · « **Reply #154 on:** May 25, 2012, 10:12:41 AM »

I'm sure Eddy's got the skills too though, it's just harder without the wiring schematics.

Mischief · « **Reply #155 on:** May 25, 2012, 10:21:33 AM »

I am in contact with deatschwerks warranty support right now and they are saying they have had 0 issues with the pump and that it is usually an issue with the o-ring not seating properly, so we will see where things go from here.

As for the pump it does not make a single noise when I put the key to the ON position. I am thinking it is the connection on the top of the fuel pump itself but I have to take the time to put it all out and check for sure. I will be taking the pump out tonight to check the connectors and make sure they aren't bent and maybe slap the stock one back in to test, but I am also curious to see how deatschwerks says the pump not turning on is an issue with the o-ring..

Mischief · « **Reply #156 on:** May 28, 2012, 08:20:37 AM »

Friday, may 25, 2012
- checked all connections with fuel pump lines, put wd40 on all of them, put deatchswerks pump back in, doesn't prime or make any noise
- installed stock fuel pump, primes instantly and works fine (obv. faulty deat pump)
- ran a personal best of 13.1 in the 1/4. Need to work on my 1st to 2nd shifting as it is too sloppy

Saturday, may 26, 2012 (TY Brandon and Braden for all the help)
- installed the brake brace and it was a real PITA. If you own an STI do yourself a favor and don't listen to their instructions. You have to take off the TMIC to be able to get the brace in, and even then the hard brake lines go right over the bolt holes so find yourself a friend to help out.
- on a better note the brace makes the car feel brand new (stopping wise) which is awesome since my pads are fading, definitely an excellent mod!
- Heat wrapped the EL headers

Sunday, may 27, 2012
- Woke up early and did the silicone sealant spray on the header/wrap
- installed EL headers
- did a few long highway runs to burn the wrap in
- it sounds like a honda $:-\$

Once it stops raining I will do a video of the differences between stock headers and these EL ones. I have noticed already less bass even in the stock catback so it sounds more like a normal car now. With the cutout open the car doesn't rattle anymore but it def sounds a bit raspy when booting it, I haven't heard it from the outside yet so that will be the final test on if I like it or not.

Mischief · « **Reply #157 on:** July 17, 2012, 08:29:30 AM »

Alright I haven't really done much since the last update but I will give some insight into what I have noticed lately.

1) I purchased a second Deatchwerks 265lph fuel pump and installed it into the car, has been working for the past 2 weeks now with no issues. The other one should be coming back from warranty soon at which point I will either sell it or keep it in the car as a spare.

2) The car on idle/putting around town sounds like a honda (with the cut-out open). Only on full throttle or when the turbo is spooled does it sound like a rally car in any way. I have struggled with this since I put on the headers but I will stick by my purchase if only for the benefit of heat and air flow management.

3) I will never reach the power levels I once hoped for on the stock motor, plain and simple. I sort of wished I had researched more about the motor before I started modifying as I would HAVE just bought the stage 2 items and called it a day instead of buying all the supporting mods for 500hp. These next round of mods will probably be the last since after that its either Turbo/Meth Inj./Built Motor, all of which I would rather not do.

4) always check your oil level even if you have an AOS/Catch can. always.

Now for some pictures:

These are 2 before pictures of what the headers looked like. I wrapped each tube by itself and sprayed it all down with that thermo-tec repellent stuff.

I pulled them off this past weekend and did the o'l double wrap (can never have enough protection) to help with heat management a bit more and to clean up the look of the headers.

This coming weekend will be the big upgrade as I install the following:

1000CC injectors
Grimmspeed Ceramic Coated Up-Pipe
Tial 44mm EWG + coated dump tube (might wrap it too)
Grimmspeed Electronic Boost Control Solenoid
Grimmspeed IWG bracket

Zac · « **Reply #158 on:** July 17, 2012, 10:13:22 AM »

Let's get some exhaust sound clips

Mischief · « **Reply #159 on:** July 17, 2012, 11:05:51 AM »

Quote from: Zac on July 17, 2012, 10:13:22 AM

Let's get some exhaust sound clips

i will do some editing tonight and post up the video.

Mischief · « **Reply #160 on:** July 17, 2012, 09:28:31 PM »

STi with un-equal length headers:

http://youtu.be/AtGQNq-9ZeQ

STi with equal length headers:

PM me if you want a link to the EL headers under full throttle.

Ambystom01 · « **Reply #161 on:** July 17, 2012, 11:07:15 PM »

Interesting that you went for the double wrap on your headers. I've heard too much heat can damage the headers but I'd definitely curious to see if you notice better heat retention, spool or anything like that.

Mischief · « **Reply #162 on:** July 18, 2012, 08:09:47 AM »

Quote from: Ambystom01 on July 17, 2012, 11:07:15 PM

Interesting that you went for the double wrap on your headers. I've heard too much heat can damage the headers but I'd definitely curious to see if you notice better heat retention, spool or anything like that.

I figure I had a better chance of cracking the headers from a random puddle than from too much heat. With all the random rain storms we are getting here + winter approaching I didn't want to worry about any water getting onto them at all. However you make a good point and I think if I could do it again I would get the headers ceramic coated.

YvanF · « **Reply #163 on:** July 19, 2012, 07:20:12 AM »

Quote from: SLo_STi on July 18, 2012, 08:09:47 AM

With all the random rain storms we are getting here + winter approaching

Shut your mouth, Summer just got here!! haha

Mischief · « **Reply #164 on:** July 21, 2012, 07:46:00 PM »

July 20-21, 2012

1) installed the 44mm tial ewg (11.80 spring) in about 5 hours. This was due to the grimmspeed up-pipe studs not lining up with the turbo at all. Took about an hour to figure out the best way to mount it up and get it working. The headers also shrunk so getting them back on took 3 people to tug and push to one direction to get all the studs to line up, another 1.5 hours on a 5 minute job.

2) injectors were a rather straightforward install. We followed some tips and tricks found online and it worked rather well. The brackets to protect the injectors in the event of a crash were a real pita to get off but once they were out it was a cake walk. Here are some pictures for your enjoyment.

Day 1

car on the lift and ready to start

fuel for the night

TMIC/Headers off

up-pipe/ewg pre-test fitting

peeka-boo

view of the EWG installed, and a look at the stock WG block plate

Day 2

upgraded EBCS

bracket up and out to access injectors

passenger side done, working on driver side now

if you look close enough you will notice i forgot to bolt on the BPV which caused some rich idling. Once I buttoned that up I was idling perfectly.

view from below. The EWG dump tube follows the downpipe on the driver side.

Jojo · « **Reply #165 on:** July 22, 2012, 07:53:05 PM »

Nice! I didn't get to enjoy scaring people with my ewg as my car went to Red Deer not even a week after I installed it.. That GS bracket was a pita barely lined up but eventually got it to fit. Sick set up man can't wait to hear it sometime in person.

Mischief · « **Reply #166 on:** July 23, 2012, 08:08:11 AM »

Quote from: Jojo spec b on July 22, 2012, 07:53:05 PM

Nice! I didn't get to enjoy scaring people with my ewg as my car went to Red Deer not even a week after I installed it.. That GS bracket was a pita barely lined up but eventually got it to fit. Sick set up man can't wait to hear it sometime in person.

I am on a base tune at the moment so I am limited to 3k RPM which means I can only get about 4 psi. It doesn't sound very loud but I am sure with the turbo in full swing it will wake some people up. I am more curious to see if it is louder than the cut-out or if they will just drown each other out.

Jojo · « **Reply #167 on:** July 23, 2012, 11:09:28 PM »

Oh yeah that is gonna be loud! haha I think ewg will be louder but I think the best part is going to see people's reaction thats gonna be priceless!

Mischief · « **Reply #168 on:** August 08, 2012, 10:15:43 AM »

The adventures of Molly (thats my cars name)

So I figure I should update everyone and actually write down the issues I have had for future generations of modifiers. After I installed the EWG/Injectors and had a base tune on the car it really didn't like 1500 RPM or 3000 RPM in any gear. In every gear at 1500 RPM it went lean to around 16.1 then back to normal, but at 3000 RPM it would go un-readable and hit a brick wall. The car would chug and chug (no knock) until it got to around 3200 RPM when it would sort itself out and continue on like normal.

Obviously this is an issue and I had a booking to be dyno tuned with Airboy on August 11th but this issue scared me into thinking it could be something other than needing a good day of tuning to smooth it out. So I called up IA Performance who decided to try and take a swing at it once I explained the situation and he sent me around 14 maps total, all of which did not solve the issue.

At this point he informed me it was likely an issue with the 08+ STi stock FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and the fact that it has it's own 3D Map to tune in the ECU, and normally people don't slap in the DW 1000cc injectors and stick with 750cc or 850cc and have the same issues but are able to be smoothed out with a tune.

So I called DW and explained the situation and asked their opinion on the matter. Mike told me he had a lot of people calling in with issues like this back in 2009 when people started to use the 1000cc injectors and the resolution was an aftermarket FPR or swapping it for an older style that wasn't so complicated. I then talked with Airboy who sent me another map to test but it resulted in the same issues which is when he agreed on the FPR being the issue, not the injectors.

So by August 3rd I only had 2 options and it had to be done that day to make sure it would be ready for Airboy on August 11th.. Do I purchase an 04-07 STi FPR that swaps into my car and *hope* it fixes the issue, or do I buy injectors that are known to work and just forget about the FPR. I decided to purchased the drop in FPR replacement from IA Performance for $200 and am currently set to receive it on.. you guessed it, friday the 10th.

So as it sits I will be installing the FPR friday night and then driving to Calgary starting at midnight to reach the appointment for Airboy on time. I am hoping the FPR fixes it otherwise I will be staying up late to either swap in the stock injectors or cancel the dyno reservation with Airboy.

I will update this on saturday or sunday with the results of the FPR install.

Here are some pictures of my car before it rained all over it

YvanF · « **Reply #169 on:** August 09, 2012, 05:03:57 AM »

WEll, hope the FPR fixes it. Right down to the wire!!

On the bright side, if everything lines up, you should have a mean little mahcine after its tuned!

4stAir · « **Reply #170 on:** August 13, 2012, 07:57:52 AM »

The suspense is killing me. Did you swap in the FPR? Did you make the Dyno appointment? Are you driving home right now?

Mischief · « **Reply #171 on:** August 13, 2012, 09:04:17 AM »

I am alive!..somewhat

The FPR install went rather well (since I wasn't involved) and apparently only took maybe 20 minutes to install. Saskatchatoon was over and he had it replaced in minutes so that was cool. We slapped on the new map from Airboy and went out and tested it with great results, it still had a 3k hesitation but it was way better than before.

Airboy worked on the car from 9am until 430pm and did an excellent job as usual. He didn't like the results of the 4th gear street pull so he wants a datalog for that, as well there is still a slight 1500 and 3000 rpm stutter if I stay on those rpm's exactly. As an example cruising at 120km/h in 6th gear is 3000 RPM exactly which will cause the car to hesitate/surge all over the place. If I go up to 3100 RPM it is fine.

I am quite disappointed in these injectors to the point I am ready to buy different ones in the future. I honestly still don't understand how these are still for sale if everyone has issues tuning them and they are never quite perfect. Other than that I am happy and will post up the dyno graph when I get it in the email.

Oil issue:

What can I say.. I am somehow losing 2L of oil every time I do an oil change (which is every 2500km). It is not burning it at idle or even WOT that I can tell (no white smoke), Airboy tested the cyl under load and didn't see any reason to suspect ringlands. I currently suspect the crawford AOS either being plugged or broken.. honestly have no idea.

LilDrunkenSmurf · « **Reply #172 on:** August 13, 2012, 09:14:35 AM »

2L of oil over 2500k? You're doing better than me.

Mischief · « **Reply #173 on:** August 20, 2012, 08:21:56 AM »

Update on this (pictures at the bottom):

I did an oil change last weekend and it seemed okay through-out the week with checking it while cold. I did a small trip (about 600km total) and by the end of it I was again losing 2 liters of oil. I took it to my friends house on sunday and we decided to rip everything apart and figure this out.

So we pulled off all the oil lines on the AOS and found everything was rather dry in the AOS/Hoses/Receiving end of the engine. We pulled out the TMIC and sure enough brand new oil was sitting on the coupler hose to the throttle body. After much discussion on where oil could enter through the turbo and go into the TMIC it was figured that the compressor housing seal is leaking.

This would explain the massive amounts of black soot-ish stuff on the back of my bumper, why the AOS appears to be working fine (not much oil in the lines), and how it's eating it so fast (when on boost?).

Any other suggestions are welcome at this point but for now I am looking at doing a leak down/compression test in a couple weeks and a new turbo after that if all shows good.

pictures:

little bit of oil in the TMIC. I turned it upside down for a good hour and no other oil came out.

This is what attaches to the turbo.. lots of oil in there

This is the throttlebody and you can see just how much oil has collected there.

kenzo898 · « **Reply #174 on:** August 20, 2012, 08:44:13 AM »

Any chance you messed with the PCV when doing the AOS? I noticed less oil consumption before changing my pcv valve, I just recently went back to it and reinstalled some hose clamps I neglected to replace and so far it appears my consumption has gone down dramatically (was seeing a lot of soot/dirt building up around the hoses as well).