The Project: Installing a 8mm thick Phelonic Spacer on a 1998 DOHC Phase 1 EJ25D
The Hurdles:
- Intake manifold on EJ25D engines have an EGR (Exhaust Gas Return) valve that is connected Via a stainless steel tubing line to the block on the driver's side of the car
- Keeping derbies from falling into the engine
- Moving cables, plumbing, and intake out of the way
Tools & Materials Needed:
- Phelonic spacer kit & 2 OEM gaskets
- Drill with a 1/2" Bit
- Ratchet with 12mm socket & long extension
- 17 mm Wrench(Stubby if possible but i did mine with a long wrench)
- Two 1/2" tubing fittings and ~ 7-8 " of 1/2 " Tubing.
- Tubing cutters
Procedure:
Step 1: Always clean your engine bay with a pressure washer to avoid getting derbies in your engine
Step 2: Move/remove all things that will be getting in your way. Things like the PCV system, sparkplug wires and grounds all need to be removed. Also locate all your bolts that you will be removing
** It helps to keep a list of the things you move so you don't forget them later on**
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Step 3: Remove each bolt carefully with a ratchet and place them somewhere safe. The kit from Grimmspeed should include longer bolts.
Step 4: At this point the manifold should be able to be lifted off the block & is only hindered by the EGR line. To remove this line use a 17 mm wrench on both the fitting on the EGR valve and the block.
**Protip- Move / remove the fuel filter & battery cable to get the best access**
Step 5: By now your EGR line should be in your hand and your intake manifold should have enough play to insert your gaskets and spacer. Insert your spacer with an OEM gasket on both sides. Lining up the gaskets and spacer properly is very important. To do this, have a friend lift up on the manifold on one side and remove the old gasket. Insert the new gaskets and spacer very carefully using the new bolts and pins on the block to line them all up. Repeat on the other side.
Step 6: Once 100% sure your gaskets and spacers are lined up insert bolts and tighten. These bolts need to be tight but not too tight. I have heard a lot of stories of guys stripping these out, so be careful. Subaru recommends, if you have a torque wrench, to tighten in a criss cross pattern to a tightness of 28-34 nm, 21-25 ft lb. Use your better judgement here guys, tight is usually good enough.
Step 7: Ok so now your spacers are in... now for the fun part. Your EGR line is too short now! A lot of people freak out when they get to this step but don't fret this is a sure fire way of extending it.
1 - Use your drill to bore out 2 1/2" fittings so that there are no more stops for the tubing.
2 - Measure your line and inside diameter of a piece of 1/2 " tubing.
*Different wall thicknesses can make it too small but .039" Worked for me*
3 - Use tubing cutters to cut your EGR line in the very center of the tubing
4 - Cut a piece of tubing just smaller than the current length of of your line
5 - Slide your ported 1/2" fittings onto both ends of this piece of tubing such that both fitings can be tightened down on both sides
6 - Slide the 1/2" tubing with fittings on it onto your EGR line. Tighten only the bottom fitting such that the ferrels both tighten onto the EGR line.
7 - Install the EGR line back into its place & MARK Exactly where the 2nd fitting needs to be tightened.
8 - Remove line again and tighten 2nd fitting such that everything is square and the correct length
9 - Reinstall your extended EGR line
* Make sure the fittings are TIGHT*
Pic:
Step 8: Take out your list and return your engine bay back to normal.
Step 9: Start up engine after final inspection and look and listen for leaks in the manifold, vacuum lines, and EGR line.
