Topic: Beans Blue Bugeye STi - Turbo and Tune

[Dr Beans]

Enjoy it!! You've put in a ton of work now, savour it all.

Yeah I'm going to drive it as is for the rest of the summer and then winter is game on. The issue is that I'm one of those people that enjoy working on the car 50% of the time and driving it the other 50%.

I would enjoy it, take it from someone who just kept says "well I'm here so let's do xxxx" then you never get to enjoy the car. Awesome work so far, looks like a fun drive.

Weight reduction usually leads to a loud car, while it's cool for a bit you will get over that and not enjoy it as much imo.

Yeah that's good advice. If anything, I'd most likely add some sound deadening to the car and keep chasing the the rattles while still looking at a few ares to save weight that won't effect NVH. I'm not sure if this is a thing, but the rain guards seem to be making a ton of wind noise on the highway so those will likely be getting taken off. I think I'm also going to switch over to the Group-N motor and transmission mounts. The Cusco ones are just too stiff.

[10secdream]

If you ever get bored in the winter you can help tear the Miata apart for its yearly transformation.

[Dr Beans]

Supercharger and turbo this time?

[10secdream]

Supercharger and turbo this time?

Just a motor build / refresh this year.

[deedz]

For some reason, when I put the adapter/rubber cushion pictured below on the right front DW injector it would leak. The rubber wouldn't compress enough when the rail was tightened down and the top o-ring wouldn't fully seal.



What corrected this issue? Also, curious what you were using to lube the o-rings? Did you just end up getting new o-rings and cushions?

I've had great success with using Dow Corning Molykote 55 O-ring grease. In addition to lubricating the o-ring it actually causes the o-ring to swell for a better seal.


Nice numbers by the way!

[Dr Beans]

I ended up just removing the bottom rubber cushion shown in the picture. That was enough for everything to torque down just fine and not leak. I think the root cause is the stock metal fuel rail lines that you need to bend up a bit to get the old injectors out without taking off the I/M. They're hard to bend down into the exact same position after installing the new injectors.

The seals were all brand new and I was using the grease supplied from DW so I don't think that was the issue.

[deedz]

I ended up just removing the bottom rubber cushion shown in the picture. That was enough for everything to torque down just fine and not leak. I think the route cause is the stock metal fuel rail lines that you need to bend up a bit to get the old injectors out without taking off the I/M. They're hard to bend down into the exact same position after installing the new injectors.

The seals were all brand new and I was using the grease supplied from DW so I don't think that was the issue.

Ah I see, yeah that would likely do it. I guess with all of the injectors that I've changed I've never had to bend the rails. The last time around I replaced DW's with ID 850's and replaced the wring connectors, so that was easiest with everything removed.

Good to know. I had forgotten that my ID 850's came with grease as well.

[Dr Beans]

Changing the fuel rails on this car to AN fitting set up would clean up so much itshay and make the I/M 100x easier to remove. But it's also one of those things where it's hard to justify spending all that money for no performance gain.

I got a big list of things I want to do as soon as the season is done and the car is parked. I might add it to that.

[Dr Beans]

Figured I'd give an update with a few changes.

Fist, I deleted the EVAP system after asking Airboy to turnoff the codes.







Then I removed the rain guards.



Then I removed the rear wiper. Some people think this is cool I guess? Anyhow, I never used it once and wanted a clean look.





Then lip and diffuser.









I also remade the brack for the AOS as the last one was two flimsy pieces of sheet metal.

[JJx]

The lack of rear wiper definitely adds to the clean look.
Just a heads up on the AOS, I had mine freeze while driving in that spot, and lost like 3L of oil in a couple seconds. I've since moved my AOS right by the turbo by the firewall, and haven't had issues since.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

I don't think he plans on driving it in the winter, so unlikely an issue.

[Dr Beans]

Yeah it's not getting driven in the winter but thanks for the heads up. Is your AOS one of the ones that has coolant run through it to heat it up?

And I originally wanted to mount it by the turbo, but being RHD I have my brake booster and clutch master cylinder in the way. On the opposite side I couldn't figure out how to mount it without the drain on the AOS being lower than the drain in the block.