Author Topic: darthekai's OBS - keep on keepin on  (Read 28289 times)

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Offline darthekai

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darthekai's OBS - keep on keepin on
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:37:34 PM »
Welcome to my webpage.

This story is about my 240,000km 2000 Subaru Outback Sport. I bought it in Rossland, BC for $2200. It worked "pretty good". When it came into my posssession in 2013, it had a naturally aspirated phase 2 SOHC 2.2L EJ22. It now has a turbocharged phase 2 SOHC 2.2L EJ22 with 295,000km on it.

When I bought this car I knew absolutely nothing about car maintenance, repair, tuning, or modification. It was a great car to learn on.  Previous to this, I owed a 1987 4wd honda civic wagon that I managed to limp along through university.
Please find enclosed my first ever "journal post". Thank you for your time.







My Goals (in order):
-Make the N/A engine run great
-Make the car and engine look great
-Start doing supporting mods for turbo
   -Fuel lines, pump, injectors
   -Some kind of ECU swap that makes sense (megasquirt, anyone?)
-install on-board PC -- before you say anything, this is because I'm a computer guy, and I've ALWAYS wanted to try this.
-install turbo, up/downpipe, TMIC, run 4-6psi boost, get engine running well with this.
-yank engine, install trans temp guage, remove heads, install EJ251 heads ported and polished by me.
-turn up boost
-deal with the consequences

I'm reserving the next 3 posts for the following topics: Starting out, Looks & OBPC, and Turbo

Lastly here are some pictures I have already posted on the intro page:

Edit: uckfay photobucket. uckfay them right in their stupid sholeasays.

My 2 beauties in my beauty garage (GIVE ME ALL THE FOREST GREEN!!!!!11):


The day I drove the scoob from Rossland to Calgary and it puked snow on me THE ENTIRE TRIP (good thing this car shrugs it off):


Engine bay as I got it (posted on FB, first comment from my only friend who cares about cars: "jeesus, and I though MY bay was bad..."):


My old tired civic engine that I found a photo of in this photobucket account I havent used in many years:

What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
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Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2013, 09:38:30 PM »
Starting Out

So I got it. now what? I headed over to rs25.com and read a TON of posts.

I found this one written by a smart guy thats got a similar mindset when it comes to cars: its all about the fun:
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f106/t80104-budget-build-faq.html

good sense in there I tell ya.

This post, which has some great info on head swap (wayy down the road):
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t71639-diy-engine-building-ej251-sti-rods-pistons-head-work.html

And this one from a guy out on the eastcoast who damn well knows what hes doing:
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t171245-jagulars-97-franken-build.html
p.s. this guy is pretty awesome. He PMd me and pointed me to his journal on atlantic subaru club where he turboed a stock EJ22 NA:
http://www.subaruclub.ca/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11002

So heres my plans:
1) Fresh fluids, plugs, PCV, check fuel filter, check timing belt
2) theres a bunch of hoses, Evap system components, clips and bolts missing on this car. Fix that, and get the damn CEL off (knock sensor + something related to the cat)
3) grounding kit, fresh air inlet, light bulbs, sway bars, strut bars, WRX stock exhaust.

I decided to add a little something after seeing a thread on a guy who painted his intake manifold

4) remove manifold, paint, add thermal spacers to it and the TB, do parallel fuel line mod while its out.

Heres Plugs, PCV, filter, timing belt, hoses, evap, air, strut bars done.
note that so far I have found no good wreckers or pick-a-parts. ZERO tacomas in any, and I only just recently found a pick-a-part with some subarus in it. (only three). managed to rip all the evap parts I needed and it cost me $50, which is great. Started running out of time (it costs $1 a visit, and I showed up late in the day) and managed to rush everything and leave a good portion of my knuckles in the engine bay..


I found the jack in the right spot, along with a couple inches of water in the little depression it sits in. This stumped me for a while until I found this:
I figure its been disconnected and pumping washer fluid into the spot for a while...



Bid is in on a 20mm WRX sway bar from edmonton, still on the prowl for front that fits my wagon, and a WRX exhaust. I've got a lead on a performance shop that apparently throws one or two into the dumpster every once in a while.
Just got a Paranoid Fabrications Grounding Kit, lightbulbs, and my Scoobie stickers in the mail!
Side note: I must be on a watch list or something, all my packages are getting snooped..



Shane from PF even threw in a candy!

Rally Pig FTW!  I'm really not happy with the kerning on the AWD sticker... uggh... but ittl do..
hahah what a useful sticker.. When I was in 1st year I got my civic impounded for DDing 8 people home while under the legal limit, with my N (new drivers permit, zero alcohol tolerance..) and I told the cop: flatbed only. Then waited around until the tow truck showed up, sent it back, and got the flatbed I wanted.
not sure what kerning is? follow this link: http://xkcd.com/1015/


I ran into a bit of a roadblock last night: changed the trans oil on my taco because I was getting worried about a whine I've been hearing...
this is what I see:


My guess is that I ground one of the the countershaft bearings right up... so now my focus is shifting to getting that thing back in the weather before biking season hits, and getting my N/A subaru ready for out of province inspection so I can work on my truck!  :'(  poor baby...

It's a huge PITA, as im still technically a BC resident, and both my vehicles are licensed with ICBC.. From what I hear, if I start the legal address change process, I can insure my CAR with no inspection through AMA, as long as I promise to get one soon.. really puts the crunch down.  >:(

I ripped apart a OBS in the junkyard to figure out how the rear windshield washer fluid is routed. Drivers side of the hatch, theres a rubber connector that its routed into, and THATS WHERE IT TEES.  buut it goes up there via inside metal body parts, so you would have to do some finangling to get it up there. ok, two problems with that..
1)there is no piece to connect it to on my car. I assume its lost somewhere inside the hatch.
2)I recently discovered the floor (under my rubber mats) of both sides of the rear compartment AND the front drivers side floor is SOAKED. I can only assume thats where the rest of the fluid went.

Weird thing about 2 is that in the OBS at the junkyard, it was a single continuous line going all the way from the rear to the engine bay...
gonna have to do some carpet ripping up. For now, I jammed a perfectly sized plastic bit I found in my tool kit into the outlet of the pump, then slipped the hose back overtop. Now it doesn't leak back into the line, and the pump is disconnected.
What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
Subaru Ford (sold) Toyota

Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2013, 09:39:02 PM »
OBPC
Got this thing up and running on the bench. For power supply I used a M2 ATX, and for the case, I went with the VoomPC aluminum case. Fitment was mega tight, but I made it work. Had the whole thing up and running a custom version of windows.
Then, work took over and it sat on my shelf for 4 months.
Tried to install a short while ago, and it would not POST. Found out the SSD is totally toasted which is a total bummer. Bought a replacement but out of pure depression i have not got around to re-doing all the work i put into the first one.
Problem 2: screen flickers when hooked up to VGA cable from PC. Not sure if because of dirty grounds, bad alt, bad battery, what. but I will figure out once I get that hdd back up.

Motherboard: first I decided on form factor first. Based on good carPC build cases, I went with Mini-ITX. confusingly, MICRO-ITX is actually bigger than mini, but generally ONLY due to the increased number of PCI expansion slots and RAM slots. I love gigabyte, I love the good old fashioned AwardBIOS and how gigabyte sets it up, and as an added bonus, gigabye makes their boards super tough with thicker than average PCB depth, thicker traces, high quality closed cap japanese 50,000hr capacitors, and are made to better resist humidity, heat, and static shock. In other words, they are tough. I've also used gigabyte for many years and I have a lot of brand loyalty.

That is a gigabtye GIGABYTE GA-H61N-USB3. The other things I looked for were built in wifi cards (which this board does not have), lots of USB capacity (gigabyte individually fuses each USB port and provides 3x the necessary power), Optical audio out, a large, well built chipset cooling unit, and dual memory channels.
I ended up going for the more expensive board, but what the hell, thats the backbone of any system and one should really not be cutting corners here..
So based on that, I need a Socket 1155 CPU

CPU:
I went cheap in this department, as I dont need tons of speed out of this thing and its not going to be trying to keep up with any high powered GPU or anything. SUPRISINGLY I could get a 2.9Ghz 3MB cache 2core Intel Ivy Bridge Pentium for $65! It also only consumes 55w, which is a nice bonus.

Not much to say here, I'm not going to overclock, so as long as this thing does it's job, I'm 100% happy.

Now, I want a low-profile cooler and I (as usual) have NO IDEA what the cooling unit looks like that ships with that CPU. because of this, I usually go ahead and buy an aftermarket cooling solution right off the bat. Selection on Newegg for socket 1155 compatible cooling solutions was pretty minimal. The only reliable and not terrible brand I found was Titan. Heres a pic. I also bought some thermal grease (for noobs, if you EVER take a heatsink off a cpu, you need to clean and re-grease it. this is a special product, and its cheap, so dont skip it. you also will probably want to buy a cleaning agent for the old gunk baked on there.)


RAM:
Next up, I need some memory. This board has 2 memory channels and the CPU I bought has two memory controllers built in, so I can run dual channel RAM. For noobs, dual channel is good because the two sticks can transceive simultaneously on their private bus. you do however HAVE TO GET MATCHED PAIRS. timing is so sensitive with a 2ch setup, that factors such as the physical length of trace on the PCB are extremely important (they have to be the exact same). Matched pairs come in sets (you will see 2x2GB in the product name) that are manufactured one after another (look at the serial numbers, they will usually be sequential). IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO LOOK AT RAM COMPATIBILITY LISTS ON YOUR MOTHERBOARD MANUFACTURERS WEBSITE. many people buy RAM that is NOT on this list and then wonder why their shiny new 2ch RAM wont pair or worse yet, their newly built PC won't POST.
Anyways, I like Cosair so I went for 2x2GB of DDR3 1333 for real cheap.

Timing and CAS latencies are not fantastic, but they arn't bad and again, I don't care that much. A feature that was important to me was HEATSINKS. there's not a lot of airflow thats going to be in this case, so I want as much heat as possible to get pulled away from the dies .

HDD:
I want a solid state harddrive, as theres going to be bumps and I want low power consumption. Most small form factor cases use 2.5" drive bays, so I picked up a 2.5" OCZ Vertex 2 60GB SSD refurbished for $50. I don't know a ton about SSDs, so I hope buying refurbished wasn't a mistake.


Total Cost with shipping and taxes: $275

SOME OF THE STUFF IS HERE... for some reason newegg decided to ship my order in two separate mostly empty boxes...
that and also purolator is terrible. WHILE I WAS OUT DRIVING THE 17KM TO GET MY FIRST PACKAGE, BOTH MY SECOND NEWEGG PACKAGE AND MY REAR STRUTS SHOWED UP, SO I CAME HOME TO TWO ADDITIONAL NOTICES!!  whaaaaat.


To buy: Aluminum case ($90), Powersupply ($90)
To figure out: where/how to mount. I'm thinking a screw mount on the back of the smaller rear seat, next to an amp, but we'll see where it goes.

Appearance Modifications:
threw on some awesome stickers. FWD sucks, 2x WSC 13" on the rear doors, Rallypig in black on the mirrors, AWD - Do not tow, Flatdeck ONLY sticker on hatch.
Got some sweet scissor ski/board racks from kijiji for dirt cheap.
Painted intake manifold because I'm cool like that and it was off already for phenolic spacer install.
Changed dash lights and dome light to red because why not.
Installed GC8 JDM STI seats, which totally rock my world.
Painted hood scoop and vents flat black. Bought new scoop (have not recieved yet) and mudflaps (have not installed yet) and DIN gauge pod for dash pocket spot (looks awesome)


For my information once I finish truck: http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/interior/dash/dash.html
What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
Subaru Ford (sold) Toyota

Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2013, 09:40:01 PM »
OK I'm going to go ahead and just lay out what I actually ended up doing. Its up to you to decide if theres anything fundamentally wrong with me.
1) Remove exhaust, install subachad UP/DP, turbo
problems here: got wrong gasket for header-UP. Re-used old one. DP end flange STILL rubbed on my cross member. Tightened everything up as best I could.
other things I did: bought new studs/bolts for header. Removed header. sanded intake flanges until they were shiney and flat. Re-gasketed flanged.
things I had to buy: 2000 OBS Header gasket, 2000 OBS header->cat gasket, 2008 WRX turbo inlet/outlet gaskets, 2xm12 banjo bolts (from dealer, due to feed hole size wierdness. I believe 08 WRX coolant banjo fittings), 1xm10 banjo bolt (from dealer again, no screen, very small hole), the stock td04 oil drain nipple and gasket (dealer), some silicone hose that is size matched, and a NPT threaded hose barb to match that hose, custom made braided line 2ft long with JIS fitting on one side and NPT thread on the other (got at my local hose shop), a 1/8"BPSTxNPT nipple, Some matched size coolant hose with two tees, JISxhose barb fittings (all this from local hose supplier), and clamps.

So what I did here was as follows:
1) removed dummy oil pressure light sender, taped threads of nipple, installed nipple, installed braided oil sending line. Dummy switch is located just underneath the alternator.
2) Cut my TB heater hoses about halfway up, installed tees, did not install third leg of tee yet.
3)Removed cat section of old exhaust, installed subachad UP w/ gasket
4) bolted all the banjo bolts and the oil drain to the turbo, then bolted turbo to UP
5)measured, cut, and installed the third leg of the coolant lines. Feed is on top, return on bottom. Attached other end of oil feed line
6)removed oil pan (this is actually pretty terrible. Look it up online before starting this list), drilled it, tapped it with 7/8" or whatever the threaded side of my oil return nipple was, WASHED IT OUT REAL WELL, let it dry, added make-a-gasket, reattached.
7) plumbed in silicone drain line. I ended up wrapping it in foil tape because it comes pretty close to my exhaust header.
8) installed Subachad DP. note that the end tri-flange hit my crossmember. I should have just cut it off.
9) Removed the fuel pump relay. Its under the dash on drivers side on a rack of 3 and its green.
10)Cold cranked the engine a bunch of times. This runs the oil & Water pump with no hot exhaust gasses. Apparently its possible to wreck a turbo if you skip this step.
11) Removed C-clip in wastegate actuator and disconnected. Drove it to the exhaust shop. Told guy I wanted 2x bungs, him to move that flange, and a 2.5" pipe with my cheap-o glass pack in there somewhere. Cost ~600 total.

I then proceeded to drive around for about 600 more kms before I got around to installing TMIC and ECU. The WG was propped open and the turbo was not hooked up to the air inlet. Keep in mind that I drove it NOT HARD. this is a good way to overspin your turbo and wreck it. Even with the WG open, it still spins, especially at high rpms.

Next up, I found out the STI intercooler does not fit. After much angry bashing with a hammer, I broke it.
I then bought a 04 WRX intercooler for $40. It fits no problem. I took the plastic Y pipe and cut it at JUST the right angle that a silicone 90 brings everything together real nicely. Lots of hose clamps later, the turbo was plumbed to the engine. At this point I also installed my boost gauge to make sure that the WG being open kept me out of boost. Note: it didnt, but my ECU did not freak out. I think its good to a little over atm. Maybe 4 PSI?

I then drove around for about 400 more kms.

The above was my solution to now having nowhere to put my intake air temperature sensor. I wound up buying a GM open element IAT, cutting a pigtail off a 2007 toyota carolla, getting some washers and O-rings, then drilling and tapping the intercooler as close to the neck as I could. Airflow is non-ideal, but seems to be high enough to keep it cool. The GM PN I think is 12102620 for the pigtail and the sensor is GM #25036751
The washers are just to space it off the core, and there is an O ring on both sides of the washers. I also used thread seal.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/knowledge_is_power/Mobile%20Uploads/20140525_120211.jpg

Wiring:
So I had a bunch of troubles with the ECU.
first was finding a wiring diagram. I went online and downloaded every FSM (factory service manual) I could find. Also any misc "wiring diagram" pdfs I could find. I then compared ECU plug #s (actual # of plugs in the ecu), shapes, sizes, and finally wire colors. I found exactly ONE that worked. Its hosted here:
http://www.filedropper.com/wiringdiagram
but the # (top right corner) is D5M1 in case that goes down.
I then went through my ECU's install manual and decided what sensor info I needed/wanted. I then spent a weekend tracing wiring diagrams with my finger and trying to locate the correct wires in real life, then labeling them. This was surprisingly successful.
tips: If you dont have coil-on-plug ignition, then you have TWO injector drives
Pin#1 on cam and crank sensor is the +'ve signal. the cam signal switches wire color halfway between the engine and the ECU (so it starts out white/orange, then it ends black/white, the black was the white and the white was the orange)
I combined both fans into one assy.
You need to wire the tach in as an output. Theres two wires coming from the Tach/speedo magic box. One passes thru the vehicle speed sensor. This is SPEED. dont worry about it too much, I hooked it into my ECU because why not I dont have any other digital inputs, but if you want you can leave it out, it makes no difference. The wire that does NOT pass thru the speed sensor is the tach feed wire and needs to be an analog output configured as a tach.
I got 18-33g butt crimps, stripped the stupid plastic itshay off em, then used them with proper shrink wrap.
EXCEPT with the cam/crank sensors. I parallel soldered these, then shrunk wrapped em.
with the cam/crank sensors (in fact all shielded wire), it is best to minimize unshielded runs. as such my injectors, ignition, and trigger wires are all super duper short.
power supply is a little tougher than I originally thought. you have to do the following:
1) supply the new ECU with 'on' 14v. NOT acc 14v. and NOT a pin labeled +14v on the ecu. Use the POWER ROUTING DIAGRAM to figure this out.
ACC turns off during cranking. you dont want that. +14v is on ALL THE TIME. you dont want this either.
2) the old ecu actually used to engage the main relay. You need to short circuit this and engage the main relay when key is in ON position. find main relay coil pin, and attach it to the same source you are powering your ecu with.
3)surprisingly, the fuel pump relay coil was not powered by the main relay. This means the fuel pump can be on even though the main relay is off. this seems unsafe and shame on you subaru. I have my fuel pump relay as one of my ecu outputs, which is probably necessary.

I would recommend paying more attention to wire management than I did. Mine is an absolute mess and I dont feel like cleaning it up. I would also recommend wiring in the new harness while it is unplugged from the new ecu and the battery is disconnected, and then connecting the battery, and then testing all the pins of the new harness to see if it makes sense before finally hooking up new ecu.



I had problems with trigger patterns. Turns out I needed to use the one listed as "EJ251 AVCS" not the one listed as "V5-6 WRX". They are both reluctor. I'm not using any filtering and I get no errors. take from that what you will.

Setting the timing was another challenge when I realized I did not know what subaru's timing mark looked like. Basically how this works is the ECU tells you "ok were gonna try and do 10 degrees before top dead center" then you crank it and look at the marker thing with a timing light (a light that tells you when current is going to spark plug #1) and you make sure the marker is at the -10 spot. if it isnt you enter an "offset" and repeat until it lines up.
the challenge here is that the timing mark is on the crank pulley and is a tiny tiny divot taken out of the rib closest to the timing cover.
the internet thinks this does not exist. Seriously. Google Subaru timing mark crank pulley and 3 things will come up:
1) how to change the timing belt and the marks on the timing belt
2) the marks on the timing gears and behind the timing gears (neither of which will work)
3)people asking where the mark is, only to be told "subaru engines dont have one, because you cannot adjust timing in an EFI engine so theres no point"
3)grimmspeed's lightweight crank pulley - I would have given up without this page, as it mentions that the pulley still includes the OEM timing mark

HERE! HERE IS A PICTURE TO HELP OTHERS! IT DOES EXIST, IT REALLY DOES. sorry for the hard-to-see-ness of it, my engine will only settle in two positions it seems like.
P.S. I used an offset of 0 degrees.





My new problem: I'm running out of injector. And it turns out I (of course) have the super special version of the super special version of subaru injector styles: the WIDE air assist green injectors...  :-\

What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
Subaru Ford (sold) Toyota

Offline seat safety switch

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2013, 10:11:08 PM »
I think you must mean a Vanagon instead of a Eurovan; Eurovans have the Audi I5 motors while Vanagons have the VW watercooled boxer engine.

Either one can receive a pretty brutal turbo swap out of a nearby rally car so they are more alike than different.

As a fellow green Outback Sport enthusiast I'm looking forward to seeing what happens with this. Megasquirt might work pretty well (I got a partially assembled MS2 this past weekend for the Miata), but have you looked at the AEM EMS-4? It's an ECU designed for powersports/quads but it seems like it has enough guts to run a 4-cylinder turbo motor.

Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2013, 10:31:24 PM »
youu would be correct sir.  ;D
Both being boxy, slightly underpowered camper convertibles, I constantly confuse the two.
The one he owns is amazing, i just boil with jealousy every time I see it and even more when I ride in it..

The main attractive feature of the MS series is their apparent ability to tell you ALL THE INFORMATION.
im kind of an information junkie, and when it comes to cars, I've always hated how little the car tells it about itself.
I will check out the EMS-4 for sure, thanks for the tip!

on a side note, I'm trying to resize these huge photos in photobucket, but the new setup is horribly slow and apparently sometimes non-functional...
for now, I give up..
What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
Subaru Ford (sold) Toyota

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2013, 07:29:12 AM »
Your OBS looks to be much... less life threatening than seat safety switches OBS
If the sea was vodka, and I was a duck.
I would swim to the bottom, and drink my way up.
But the sea isn't vodka, and I'm not a duck.
So give me the vodka, and stfu.
If you're having forum problems, I feel bad for you son, I got 99 problems but your post ain't one.

Offline purdy

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2013, 09:19:05 AM »
Ambitious build for an NA. Looking forward to more
-Adam

Offline YvanF

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2013, 02:17:49 PM »
Ambitious build for an NA. Looking forward to more

Yeah, Ambitious alright. Subscribed!  ;D

Offline Zac

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2013, 05:47:57 PM »
nice EJ22 build, i'll have to find pics of mine after it was built. had a custom UEL header and everything!

Offline RedndWhite

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2013, 11:18:27 PM »
In car pc build, eh? I'm going for the same thing in mine. Have the parts compiled, just need to install; got most my supplies from mo-co-so.com, Newegg, and the hardware store. I'm using an Intel Atom chipset as it's got a ridiculously low power consumption and doesn't need a fan.

As a fellow NA 2.2L dreaming of a turbo, I've subscribed.
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Life is too short to be stock and drive boring cars.

Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #11 on: March 14, 2013, 06:33:03 PM »
Ambitious is all i GOT!
haha just a heads up, it's going to take a long time (by best guess, 10 months till turbos on) due to my lack of time, money, parts, part sources, motivation, etc.  ;D

Another goal I have is to document the crap out of it, so it should be interesting.

hey RedndWhite, thats sweet, id be interested in some details.
I've got a rough idea of most of the components, but im still low on details for a power supply that will take a variable 12v line and turn it into a 12, a 5 and a 3.3v...  what did you end up using?

ive stumbled upon this site: http://www.mini-box.com/Car-PC-Automotive-Computing-Solutions oh wait.. thats not even the right page...
here we go: good thing I bookmarked it.. http://www.mini-box.com/M4-ATX?sc=8&category=1544
They claim pretty clean signal and apparently when the acc signal cuts, it sends a Shutdown-on-LAN pulse instead of instantly cutting power.

also: do you have OBD going to it?
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Offline RedndWhite

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2013, 09:18:13 PM »
Ambitious is all i GOT!
haha just a heads up, it's going to take a long time (by best guess, 10 months till turbos on) due to my lack of time, money, parts, part sources, motivation, etc.  ;D

Another goal I have is to document the crap out of it, so it should be interesting.

hey RedndWhite, thats sweet, id be interested in some details.
I've got a rough idea of most of the components, but im still low on details for a power supply that will take a variable 12v line and turn it into a 12, a 5 and a 3.3v...  what did you end up using?

ive stumbled upon this site: http://www.mini-box.com/Car-PC-Automotive-Computing-Solutions oh wait.. thats not even the right page...
here we go: good thing I bookmarked it.. http://www.mini-box.com/M4-ATX?sc=8&category=1544
They claim pretty clean signal and apparently when the acc signal cuts, it sends a Shutdown-on-LAN pulse instead of instantly cutting power.

also: do you have OBD going to it?

So this is what I just updated in my thread. Yay for copy pasta.

Quote
I'm going to be using a Mini-ATX board, currently have a Foxconn board, haven't even turned it on yet. Should probably get to that soon.

Power supply; http://www.mo-co-so.com/M3-ATX-Mini-ITX-Automotive-Grade-PSU-p/mcs-atx-m3.htm
Bit of an issue with this, doesn't have a 5V connector, and I'm not entirely determined to go out of my way to make one. Most probable solution to this is to find a board that requires less and use the Foxconn one somewhere else.

Display; http://www.mo-co-so.com/Double-DIN-Lilliput-EBY701-NP-C-T-VGA-Touch-Screen-p/mcs-lil-701-dd.htm
Works really well for me on my PC; however, it's kinda grainy and not very detailed. Once it's in the car, I'll be upping the text size so it's easy to read.

60GB SSD, plenty of space for OS and lots of music.

For the OS, I'm tossing up two ideas, using Android x86 (doesn't work well with the touchscreen, but a very capable and intuitive platform) or use Windows 7. Currently am running trial and error to see what works best for me, will report back at a later time.

Sound; will be getting a 3.5mm jack to composite (red and white) which will then connect into an amp suggested by Blessthekellen... Haven't actually got this yet..

Case; http://lcdmodkit.com/pccase/i2004ab-m1.html
Reason I got this, I'm going to be putting it around the coin tray/centre console vents/that area, where the LCD is nice and visible, where my clock shall now go. Plus, it's cool.

I will be using OBD2, however, it's just going to be bluetooth. My car only gives me coolant temp, codes, and load, so I don't really need an expensive cable when 20 bucks worth of elm 327 and a bluetooth usb dongle work just as well.
Al-Tessa
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Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2013, 07:40:35 PM »
thanks man! have you looked into linux distros? a lot of tuning apps have linux versions and there are distros out there that are made for cars or embedding and are nice and lightweight but have all the features you would want.
Also, linux tends to have really good DIY electronic compatibility. Scripting is VERY powerful and easy to learn, and you can quite easily write a script to take raw input from a wire you, say soldered into pin 10 of your serial port, process it, and spit it out on your LCD.
Also, that is a super sweet case. ..

I was running into some trouble because I wanted 2 PCI slots on a miniATX board, which didnt exist: one for wifi card and one for GPS.
I then realized I live in the future and in fact BOTH OF THOSE THINGS ARE AVAILABLE ON THE USB.  ::)
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Offline seat safety switch

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2013, 08:21:59 PM »
At this point in time a raspberry pi might make sense too. It's bound to be more efficient than an x86 and easier to mount.

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2013, 11:00:21 PM »
The only downside with Raspberry Pi is the lacking of USB, which is very much so a needed feature. I picked up a GPS receiver as well actually, runs off the ps2 module instead of USB. Just let me find it and I'll post it for you. The case is good (relatively cheap too, free shipping from the company), but I think I could have done better with the drive replacement and mounted it where I want and got a more durable case to hide it.

Scripting and code I'm not very good at, so that's gonna be a work in progress.

I'm just trying to find a distro that works well with the touch screen first, which is why I went with x86, but gonna continue piddling around with everything until something reasonable starts working.
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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #16 on: March 20, 2013, 08:08:17 PM »
If you're ever in edmonton I have a WRX exhaust you can have for a slurpee.

Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #17 on: March 21, 2013, 05:13:52 PM »
Im interested by that deal, carguy.. I gotta head up to E-town to pick up a RSB sometime soon anyways. Ill PM you when I plan it out.

update: holy hell, I went to a broker my friend recommended, and that was the most pleasant insurance experience I've ever had. Contrast that with today, when I went to the registrars.... goddd. just got STONEWALLED by this girl behind the desk with a lisp that didn't want to help me AT ALL...
turns out I can't get plates till I get an inspection, which I'm really surprised by..
so I got a week long transit permit, made an appointment at a windshield place, and another one at The Right Price auto. ran to NAPA to get CV joint grease and a clamp (one of mine was loose), slapped all the stock stuff back in, now my CELs back and my OBD2 cable is still in the mail.  >:( haha woo so fun.
I read through the specs for the inspection, and my car SHOULD pass if I can get the CEL off (pretty sure its my knock sensor) and there's no bearings out of spec...
hahaaaaa wish me luck.

Edit: CEL was in fact P0446 Evap Emissions Control System.
checked my vent and found a severed wire. tried to pull the pin out to rewire, but it was jammed right in there. $4 and a quick trip to the pick n pull, and the CEL is off! Pretty happy about that. New windshield in (had a single crack too close to the bottom edge), cost $270  >:(. Fingers still crossed for bearing play..


oh god what the hell happened to that photo??  I wish photobucket would just go back to their old, quick, low tech, bulk edit & upload methods.
What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
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Offline seat safety switch

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #18 on: March 21, 2013, 05:41:17 PM »
AMA told me on the latest registration that they no longer required inspections to insure cars for registered members. I don't know if that applies to vehicle registrations.

 out of province is probably special too.

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #19 on: March 24, 2013, 12:27:40 AM »
Ya just PM me. It's sitting on the floor of my bro's garage aging well. Like a fine scotch or something else that ages well. STIFLERS MOM

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #20 on: March 24, 2013, 09:32:43 PM »
I will give you a shout for sure the week after easter.
Seat Safety Switch: Yea, its out of province which is still required. Its a terrible double standard that hurts my feeling. I picked it up in Rossland BC for significantly cheaper than I could find in alberta. Inspection and windshield costs are bringing it back to AB prices though... oh well, i got a ski trip out of it..  :P
What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
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Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #21 on: April 05, 2013, 08:11:57 AM »
ACHIEVEMENT UNLOCKED: BC RAGE MAGNET

DESPITE these arriving 5 days late:

(still wet because they shipped from vancouver)

I yanked these off:


with a helpful tip I found on nasoic:

(I guess sabaru wanted you to have to go to the dealer as much as humanly possible back when they made my car. Dremel solved that problem)

$75 later... BOOM, I guess now I have to add truck nuts and 4" stacks...


And I threw in PF's grounding kit and it got rid of this wierd thing my alt was doing upon startup.
What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
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Offline Asstuna

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #22 on: April 05, 2013, 09:10:11 AM »
If you're ever in edmonton I have a WRX exhaust you can have for a slurpee.
A slurpee is a drink, right?

on topic: what is it about suspension and rage?

Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #23 on: April 05, 2013, 04:44:12 PM »
A slurpee is a drink, right?

on topic: what is it about suspension and rage?

haha its more the AB license plate. I know from first hand experience that it causes instant rage in the heart of your average BC'er. Especially when seen from 2m behind while it's going 30km/h around any corner with a radius less than 10km.
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Offline darthekai

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Re: darthekai's slo-mo OBS build
« Reply #24 on: April 07, 2013, 03:27:50 PM »
hmmmm... trying to find a good screen is turning out to be harder than I thought... leaning towards this one

http://www.mo-co-so.com/6-95-Double-DIN-VGA-Touch-Screen-Monitor-p/mcs-mt-695.htm

if anyone reading this has an awesome one or has seen an awesome one, please let me know. It's ridiculous that I can find a double din touchscreen with a head unit and ittshay computer attached to the back for cheaper than I can find just the screen...
What man put together, man can rend asunder and then also put it together sometimes what's all this left over stuff
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