Topic: ej20k v4 cranks forever, no start.

[gf8wrx]

After getting the car home; I have done the following things: cleaned the MAF sensor, Throttlebody, and IACV all with non-chlorinated brake-kleen. I had found my problems the same if not worse. Then I changed the sparkplugs to bk7reix, fuel filter, as well as the fuel pump as I thought the possibly 20 year old fuel pump could be causing an issue. It has not improved anything either. After further inspections of the Canadian tire spectre airfilter that was barely fastened; I found out the owner or even previous owner literally sawed (broke) off the front portion of the MAF housing where the 4 bolts and screen for the MAF is that attaches to the stock airbox... MAF also had silicone sealing it instead of having a (gasket)?, not really sure just looks bad. I know these orange label MAF's are very finicky so even just sawing that part off could've screwed the MAF I'm thinking. It starts at 1000 rpm, and dies instantly unless you tap the gas pedal and regulate the throttle to simulate idle otherwise it will die/ rough idle 100-400rpm. It pulls great in boost, drives great throughout the rev range but will almost stall and even sometimes stall when going from in-gear to neutral.



Well... after getting my new maf, it didn't improve anything, and it actually threw a code 23 (maf)! The new maf did not come with an o ring for where it mounts to the factory airbox. I will have to find out the dimensions of this...  . Car still has no codes stored or anything with the original maf though... Thought it could be a bad signal wire to the TPS as i found corrosion on the signal wire and corrosion on the iacv signal wire as well. I cleaned these up, and plugged them in again. I used a multimeter to see if the TPS was getting correct voltages. It had 0.55volts consistently while the throttle was full closed (0% pedal) and had 4.28volts consistently while throttle was fully open (100% pedal). It also seemed to have consistency throughout the pedal positioning. Power wire on the TPS had 5.08volts too. I think the TPS is fine... I think the IACV is fine as i've tried adjusting it every way possible with no luck. Like i said car cranks for ever and will not turn over unless i hit the gas pedal and feather it to simulate idle otherwise it dies instantly. I ordered a cam sensor and crank sensor as a last resort... I'm starting to get a little agitated and worried about this... Has anyone dealt with this before on a ej20k?

[gf8wrx]

Update: I have replaced the Cam sensor with a new OEM ej20k, and tried to start it with no difference. I also replaced the crank sensor with a new OEM ej20k one. So I replaced and triple checked the spark plugs and wires with no improvement. I noticed it wants to 'starts' slightly better but no real improvements. I am now going to replace the coilpack ignitor and spark plug wires. Looks like the original coilpack ignitor with old aftermarket spark plug boots. I really hope this fixes it as I recall when the coilpack wiring failed on my 2jz, I had the same symptoms; Starts up correctly at 800-1000 rpm but would instantly die, and other times would just crank over and not start. I really hope this is the problem as the car has NOT thrown any codes, other then code 23 for a different maf i tried, along with code 12 (starter/curcuit) randomly after I replaced the crank/cam sensors. If this fails I will try a smoke test, then a compression test and if I can't figure it out the car goes to the mechanic... Anyone have any other suggestions on what to look for?

[10secdream]

Have you checked for fuel as well?

[Dr Beans]

Here's what I would do:

• Check spark. I know it starts for half a second and you've changed the spark plug wires, but I'd still ground each plug and fire the engine to make sure you are getting spark at each cylinder (check all 4). It sounds like you might only be firing two or three cylinders.
• It sounds like you are getting fuel. If you've been cranking it non-stop then each spark plug will be wet and smell like fuel as soon as you pull them - check to see you are getting fuel to each cylinder. You may have fuel pressure at the rail, but it could be an issue with the injector wiring. Again, it sounds like you could only be firing a few cylinders. If you are getting fuel, change your oil after getting it running
• Double check mechanical timing. Maybe the timing belt skipped a few teeth.

You're getting really granular with your diagnosing for a car that isn't throwing any codes yet. The car can run with vaccum or boost leaks, faulty IACV, incorrect TPS voltage outputs, ect (although not well).

[Mason]

Dr. Beans pretty much covered a good portion.

I would try wiggling the large plugs on the engine harness before digging into anything large. On my WRX the crank position and cam sensor pins backed out and caused a similar situation.