Topic: How to: Remove oil pump on 2.2L, and presumably almost every other EJ engine

[RedndWhite]

As I had done the majority of the fix late last night, my bolt count is likely off. Please feel free to correct if there's something wrong.

Time Estimated:
10+ Hours

Tools required:
3/8 rachet
1/2 breaker bar
Couple flathead screwdrivers
One #2 Robertson screwdriver
Pliers of some variety
Gasket Maker (one able to withstand the heat of the engine)

Sockets required:
10 mm
12 mm
14 mm
17 mm
22 mm

-- Steps --

1) Drain oil via plug in oil pan.

2) Prepare to remove radiator:
2.1) Drain antifreeze via wingnut plug on the right side if the rad (directly under the upper rad hose intake of the rad).

2.2) Disconnect the upper and lower rad hoses. I found it easier to disconnect the upper rad from the radiator and the lower from the water pump. Making sure to feed the lower rad hose under the wiring bulk.
2.3) Remove the two bolts (12mm) holding the rad to the frame.
2.4) Lift the rad out of the engine bay, and set aside.

3) Prepare to remove auxiliary belts:
3.1) Remove the belt covers for the alternator, power steering pump, and ac (if equipped) most of these are 12 mm.
3.2) Remove belt(s) from crank pulley. To move the alternator, loosen the pivoting bolt (14 mm). Only has to be loose enough to remove the cover. Loosen the belt tensioner, and little sliding thing (check picture for reference)

3.3) Remove belt. As I do not have AC, I cannot be of much help with the AC belt. But should be the same steps.
3.4) Remove crank pulley, it has a 22 mm bolt. Ensure car is blocked, park brake on, and in 5th gear. Now, use the breaker bar and loosen that bolt and remove. Once removed, the crank gear should wiggle off with minimal issues.

4) Prepare to remove timing belt:
4.1) Remove left and right side timing belt covers. There are 3 or 4 10 mm bolts all around them.
4.2) Remove the centre timing belt cover. There is 5 or 6 10 mm bolts, as well as the crank sensor (requires crescent wrench) that needs to be removed.
4.3) Once covers are off, find a very strong, thin metal pin to insert into the hydraulic idler pulley. If you don't have something like this, you'll be in for a bad time when reinstalling the timing belt.

4.4) Remove the idler pulley assembly. Do not remove the pulley itself, rather the 14 mm bolt. After the assembly is removed, the timing belt will be free to remove.

5) Prepare to remove oil pump:
5.1) Remove the three idler pulleys/gears. Requires the use of 14 mm sockets.
5.2) Remove crank timing gear. Should slide off with some wiggles. Yeah.
5.3) Loosen and remove the 6 or 7 10 mm bolts holding the oil pump in place. The below is a picture of the oil pump. There is a bolt on either side of the crank position sensor.

5.4) Using a screw driver, gently pry the oil pump off the block.

Tadaa, oil pump is off.

[RedndWhite]

6) Fix the oil pump
6.1) Tighten all the screws that are loose. In my case two


7) Reinstall oil pump
7.1) Remove the o-ring from the block... I neglected to take a picture of the LOCATION, but shouldn't be too hard to find. It's a Subaru special part (10991AA001: O RING - CYL BLOCK)
7.2) Remove all of the gasket remains off the block and pump. Use brake clean or lots of elbow grease. Likely both.
7.3) Use your favorite gasket maker that is capable of handling the engine heat. Smear it evenly across the entire contact surface of the oil pump and line it back up on the block. Hand tighten bolts until snug, torque to spec, and back off 1/4 turn to allow the gasket maker to... Make. Let sit for hour, and torque to spec.
7.4) Slide crank gear back onto crank until snug.
7.5) Put crank position sensor back in hole and torque to spec.

Install Timing Belt
8.1) Bolt in idler pulleys and gear, reference below picture for locations. Torque to spec.

8.2) Put crank bolt into crank and use to align the crank to Piston 1 Top Dead Centre, as well as both (or all 4 cam shafts). This is indicated to you by the notch on the tooth of the crank - NOT THE ARROW - and the notch on the cams. These notches must be completely vertical.
8.3) Run timing belt through the setup in the required fashion and take as much of the slack and put it between the crank and right cam (where the hydraulic idler pulley assembly was taken from). You may find it useful to put the cams a tooth back, as the belt moves the cams when tensioned.
8.4) Slowly and carefully install the hydraulic idler pulley assembly into its location. If the notches do not align, take it out and try again. This may take several attempts if it is  the first time doing a Subaru timing belt. Be careful not to strip this hole, but if you do, take the bolt to your local parts store to get a tap and helicoils.
8.5) Remove the hydraulic idler idler pulley pin from the unit after the assembly has been installed. Otherwise you will have issues and it will not be fun and you will be very frustrated. (table top vice will come to the rescue though)

9) Install Timing Belt Covers.
9.1) Start with centre cover, ensuring seal is put on the cover first, then the block, and finally the bolts.
9.2) Work on left or right covers, pending preference.

10) Install Auxiliary Belts
10.1) Put crank pulley on, after taking out the bolt used earlier (would be a good time to throw on the lightweight pulley you've just started thinking about). Tighten bolt to spec.
10.2) Put belt over the necessary pulleys (alternator, power steering, and crank). Start to tighten the near vertical bolt on alternator. After tightening to the point where the belt has a couple centimetres of play, tighten the horizontal bolt (ensuring the alternator doesn't move), as well as putting the belt cover back on and tightening the alternator's pivot point.

11) Install Radiator
11.1)  Place the rad in the location, making sure the rubber stoppers are in the holes in the lower rad support and the lower rad hose has been fed underneath the wiring.
11.2)Connect the rad hoses to the block and rad, ensure the rad plug is in and snug.

12) Almost ready to go
12.1) Add your 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water to rad, fill and let flow through the cooling system.
12.2) Add oil to 1/4 empty on dipstick
12.3) Start car, and let run at idle for a minute. While idling, crank the heat at full blast to ensure there are no air bubbles in the cooling system, and top up radiator as necessary. Kill engine and check oil, adding if necessary.

TADAA, no more leaking oil

[Graham]

awesome how to!