I wrote this for my blog so I thought I'd share it here as well.
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If you haven't made your way into Chef Justin Leboe's restaurant Model Milk down on 17th Ave yet, you owe it to yourself to give it a try.
We've been a number of times and have never been disappointed. Generally, we head there for a couple of specific dishes: Chicken & Waffles and their amazing Apple Pie (with cheddar cheese baked into the crust!), but this time, several weeks ago, a coworker invited us to try their Sunday Dinner. For $35pp, it is a three-course meal served family style and the menu changes each week. As luck would have it, this past weekend, we were lucky enough to have Chef Roy Oh, of Anju Restaurant (recently closed so they can find another location), as the man behind the menu. Anju was one of our favourite restaurants in Calgary and we were sad when it closed down as Roy is a genius when it comes to getting mouth-watering flavours into every part of his dish. You can imagine how excited we were when we found out he would be cooking for us.
The SpaceModel Milk is set in Calgary's historic dairy building and has the brick walls and steel staircases of a renovated warehouse. Tables are set on three levels: down by the street (bar level), on the main level, and up on the balcony overlooking the main eating area. You can also sit at the kitchen bar and watch the chefs work (we sat there our first time in).
The ServiceWith the exception of one time where the service was slow to start, we've had great experiences with the wait-staff at Model Milk and last night was no exception. Our server was attentive without being overbearing and offered good suggestions when asked about wine. He seemed genuinely excited about the food and there was very little wait for our meal considering the restaurant was fairly busy. The cocktails arrived at the same time as the appetizer and our water glasses were kept full.
The FoodThe most important part!
Beginning with a Soft Tofu Caprese Salad and White Kimchi Pickles, it was immediately evident that Roy hasn't lost any of his touch by moving into a different kitchen. It was a refreshing take on a Caprese salad to have the cheese replaced by soft cubes of tofu and the balsamic reduction added the needed flavour to the dish without overpowering it. The White Kimchi Pickles were served as cubes with large slices of carrot and the simple presentation did not belie the flavour. Both plates were cleared quickly and we were off to a great start.
Next up was the dish I was most excited about. For those who didn't get a chance to get to Anju when it was open, Roy easily takes the cake for the best chicken wings in the city. The Korean Fried Chicken (KFC) Wings in a Gochujang sauce are always amazing and this time was no different. Imagine succulent chicken wings and drumsticks covered in crispy (I think Rice Flour) breading that retains its crisp even when tossed with the sweet, spicy and sticky Gochujang sauce. I am literally drooling right now as I type this. When the new Anju opens up, I am praying they'll have wing nights. We didn't hesitate to scrape the last bit of sauce out of the bowl when the wings were gone.
Before the main course was served, we asked for a bottle of wine and were served a new Pinot that they had just gotten in. Nice and light flavour paired perfectly with the deep flavours of the meal.
The main course arrived with fresh plates for the Steamed Lingcod with Dejang Glaze, Braised Beef Short Rib with Sweet Garlic Soy, Beer Battered Kimchi, Asian Eggplant with Tofu and a Scallion Salad. Our table full, our eyes wide open and our noses deeply inhaling the aromas, we dished up and dug in. The fish was perfectly cooked and paired with the sweet and flavourful Dejang Glaze it disappeared quickly, but I think the real star of the main course was the beef short rib. The meat fell apart in your mouth and the perfectly paired sauce soaked into the accompanying sticky rice, prolonging the flavour in your mouth. The beer battered kimchi was a surprise and, while maybe a bit oily after sitting on the plate a bit too long, it was still crunchy and I wish all fish & chips were battered that well. The eggplant, tofu and salad were an excellent way to round out the dish, with the salad especially providing the acid to prepare you again for the rush of flavours in your next bite of the main.
Dessert was a Black Sesame Soy Milkshake served with shortbread cookie. By this point, we were all quite convinced of the quality of the meal and dessert was the icing on the cake, so to speak. While I would have preferred a slice of Model Milk's apple pie, I can't take anything away from the dessert that I was served.
RatingI really enjoyed the Sunday Dinner at Model Milk. While I'd recommend going there any time, I think that the family style and set menu are something that deserves a specific visit. I rate the experience a 4/5 Stars.
