Author Topic: 98 2.2 Brighton clutch (Read 2808 times)

vanszach · « **on:** February 29, 2016, 11:43:32 am »

hey everyone, my clutch finally went in my leggy the past week. I am planning on doing it soon here in the next 2 weeks and have been doing some research and i am unable to find any info on this job.. Would pulling the motor be easier then dropping the transmission? So many people have told me both sides and I'm trying to do it the easiest way as possible. I know there will be some struggles with either way to do it...
Also I'm going to have a few friends help me do it and they have never worked on a cable clutch only hydro's, i personally have never done a full clutch job, is there any way tips or tricks for adjusting the clutch? If its easier your more then welcome to post a link if this has been covered!

Thanks for reading,
Zach

RedBimmer93 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 29, 2016, 02:14:22 pm »

A few buddies and I changed the clutch in the Laggin wagon by pulling the motor. If you have access to an engine hoist, this is absolutely the easiest way to go. There might be a couple more things to disconnect, but access if really good to most things. Plus you won't need to pull the front axles, which would mean you need an alignment, etc. We got the motor out in 2 or 3 hours, and we are not professionals by any means. Plus once you get the motor out, the clutch and flywheel assembly is right in front of you. No need to lift everything over your head and align the clutch disc while you are laying on your back under the car.

Subaru transmissions are really heavy and bulky. I wouldn't attempt to drop the trans if you are doing this on jack stands.

farva · « **Reply #2 on:** February 29, 2016, 03:17:18 pm »

I have done it both ways. Both were done on jack stands. When I dropped the trans I dropped it on my chest and just benched it back into position. I would not suggest this as a wise course of action for most.

If you have an engine hoist it is much easier to pull the motor instead of dropping the trans. As stated you can just pivot the power steering pump and AC out of the way instead of disconnecting them.

GrantC · « **Reply #3 on:** February 29, 2016, 05:56:38 pm »

You don't even need to pull the engine all the way out of the bay, just pulling it forward & off the mounts will give you room.

Cbxj · « **Reply #4 on:** February 29, 2016, 07:24:25 pm »

My daughters and I have done quite a few "pull the engine" projects on Subarus, a few for clutches, I recommend pulling the motor. gives you nice easy access to do the rear main seal and the "leaky" cover while your there. It's a relaxed weekend of twiddling a few wrenches.
hmm... some tips as they pop into my head:
remove the hood for more enjoyable access
remove the rad and fans as a unit
leave the AC rad in, but put a piece of cardboard or thin wood next to it so you don't wiggle the engine into it.
ac compressor and ps can remain with the car and hooked up
good time to do the timing belt or plugs if your so inclined (more so on a dohc)
dont forget the rear o2 sensor wire, BEFORE you drop the exhaust

rinse the dirt off/out of, the outside of the rad while its out
I use Cetus in Calgary to resurface my flywheels not sure about edmt.
Never had a problem with OEM or Excedy clutches.
have fun.

RedBimmer93 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 29, 2016, 10:03:58 pm »

Quote from: Cbxj on February 29, 2016, 07:24:25 pm

My daughters and I have done quite a few "pull the engine" projects on Subarus, a few for clutches, I recommend pulling the motor. gives you nice easy access to do the rear main seal and the "leaky" cover while your there. It's a relaxed weekend of twiddling a few wrenches.
hmm... some tips as they pop into my head:
remove the hood for more enjoyable access
remove the rad and fans as a unit
leave the AC rad in, but put a piece of cardboard or thin wood next to it so you don't wiggle the engine into it.
ac compressor and ps can remain with the car and hooked up
good time to do the timing belt or plugs if your so inclined (more so on a dohc)
dont forget the rear o2 sensor wire, BEFORE you drop the exhaust
rinse the dirt off/out of, the outside of the rad while its out
I use Cetus in Calgary to resurface my flywheels not sure about edmt.
Never had a problem with OEM or Excedy clutches.
have fun.

I just employed the "open your hood 110% method. Still have plenty of clearance

(note the location of the hood prop)

All good tips though! Im pretty sure we did all the same things when we did our motor pull

vanszach · « **Reply #6 on:** March 01, 2016, 11:05:58 pm »

Thank you all for the helpfull advice guys! Im going to pull the motor i think, just did another clutch on my friends 06 sti so we have some knowledge on it thanks again guys!

RedBimmer93 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 01, 2016, 11:19:13 pm »

Quote from: vanszach on March 01, 2016, 11:05:58 pm

Thank you all for the helpfull advice guys! Im going to pull the motor i think, just did another clutch on my friends 06 sti so we have some knowledge on it thanks again guys!

the EJ22 motor will be easier pull than the EJ257 as well. (I am just assuming you went that route

)
That lack of uppipes, turbo, intercooler and piping, etc. should make things a bit easier and reduce the number of steps you need to take

vanszach · « **Reply #8 on:** March 02, 2016, 11:58:47 am »

Quote from: RedBimmer93 on March 01, 2016, 11:19:13 pm

the EJ22 motor will be easier pull than the EJ257 as well. (I am just assuming you went that route )
That lack of uppipes, turbo, intercooler and piping, etc. should make things a bit easier and reduce the number of steps you need to take

yea we pulled his motor to do timing, clutch and oil pick up, that's the 5th time we have pulled a Subaru motor so it isn't new to us just didn't think that pulling the motor would be easier compared to an 04 or 06 sti

vanszach · « **Reply #9 on:** March 02, 2016, 03:07:29 pm »

hey, so i may also do my timing while I'm pulling my motor (car has 306000km and old owner isn't sure when it was last done) now, i found a gates timing kit on rally sport direct and its for a decent price, it only specifies it only goes to 1997. Iv found on some forums that the pre 97's are non-interference motors, so would that be why it wouldn't work for my 98 because its interference?

RockThePylon · « **Reply #10 on:** March 02, 2016, 03:23:30 pm »

Use the Gates catalogue to find the part#, then order it from Amazon.ca

RallysportDirect will get you raped by customs.

vanszach · « **Reply #11 on:** March 14, 2016, 01:05:26 pm »

Quote from: RedBimmer93 on February 29, 2016, 10:03:58 pm

I just employed the "open your hood 110% method. Still have plenty of clearance

(note the location of the hood prop)

All good tips though! I'm pretty sure we did all the same things when we did our motor pull

If you don't mind me asking where you put the lift points, i know there is one which looks to be attached to the a/c compressor ( i did also notice 4 bolts which look like they may just be for the compressor itself holding what looks like the bracket in which to just as a lift point.) and i think, if you are looking at the front end, it is located at the rear of the motor towards the passenger side of the car. I may be correct in my own findings by looking at it but not 100% sure!

thanks in advance , Zach

Cbxj · « **Reply #12 on:** March 14, 2016, 03:26:24 pm »

Back of the engine opposite side from the starter. Is where we've always used.

RedBimmer93 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 15, 2016, 09:25:07 pm »

Quote from: vanszach on March 14, 2016, 01:05:26 pm

If you don't mind me asking where you put the lift points, i know there is one which looks to be attached to the a/c compressor ( i did also notice 4 bolts which look like they may just be for the compressor itself holding what looks like the bracket in which to just as a lift point.) and i think, if you are looking at the front end, it is located at the rear of the motor towards the passenger side of the car. I may be correct in my own findings by looking at it but not 100% sure!

thanks in advance , Zach

Sorry, I didnt see this post until now :/

You might not even need this insight anymore

Here are a couple pics that were taken as the engine was coming out. I cant remember exactly where the engine was lifted from, but hopefully these pics would have helped a little

More Pics:
http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=14015.msg552202#msg552202

vanszach · « **Reply #14 on:** March 18, 2016, 09:50:04 pm »

so went to put motor into car and it went it amazing. got everything bolted down and went to do up the clutch cable and with the spring on the fork to block the clutch pedal came all the way up but had no resistance till maybe 20% from the floor.... im assuming the TOB is not in correct, we did hear a almost tingy pop when first putting motor and trans together. Or may it just need to be adjusted. Never worked on a cable clutch always been hydro. HELP!! :/

farva · « **Reply #15 on:** March 19, 2016, 10:21:13 am »

Did you make sure the retainers for the throw out bearing were installed correctly? I've never heard a pop or anything when seating the trans. I would pull it again and check the throw out bearing retainers as well as make sure the clutch fork is seated correctly on its ball.

vanszach · « **Reply #16 on:** March 19, 2016, 01:42:32 pm »

So retaining clips broke holding tob. Replaced and motor dropped in. Now i forgot which hearer core hose from the car goes to to the motor. Is the shorter one (from drivers side) ontop or on the bottom?

farva · « **Reply #17 on:** March 19, 2016, 06:00:41 pm »

Check for arrows I think there are some. If not I'll check my leggy when I get home to see what goes where.

vanszach · « **Reply #18 on:** March 25, 2016, 12:48:02 pm »

Hey everyone. So i got 100 km on the new clutch, and the tob started to make a quick ticking when clutch is not engaged. Just started doing it. Haven't done any crazy driving and letting it break in still. Wondering if this is a bad part or if it may be mormal. Last tob did the same thing, but all the other stis i have helped do clutches on it doesn't make the noise... if anyone has had this happen and know what may be causing it, would be greatly appreciated! !!

farva · « **Reply #19 on:** March 25, 2016, 06:45:00 pm »

I've done a few clutches like this all with new TOB's and retainers and never heard ticking once changed. It might be a bad TOB.