Yep, brakes on these cars isn't cheap.
If doing it yourself is out of the question, as is VEX, then the only other route is to source the parts yourself and find your own mechanic.
At a minimum you'll need rotors, pads, and fluid (add lube if you will give this a go after all).
Rotors:- A lot of people here, myself included, use
NAPA Premium rotors. They are not fancy but they work well, are well priced, and don't need to be shipped because shipping steel is silly. If you're an AMA member (or have a friend/family member who is, they also offer a 10% discount for those with a membership). I prefer the coated ones as the hub remains rust free longer, but they do cost a bit more than the uncoated rotors.
- Another option to the the NAPA rotors, I hear that some Canadian Tires stock Brembo blank rotors. However, I personally would be inclined to use the NAPA's as I know what I'm getting and feel I can trust NAPA a bit more - this is a completely subjective statement.
- Locally: VEX
- Canadian seller: I would go to Touge Tuning. They stock DBA rotors and StopTech rotors. However, in both cases you're looking at about $800 for the DBAs or $650 for the StopTech's (front+rear) - this doesn't include silly things like Tax or actually moving those pieces of heavy metal to where you can reach out and touch them.
- Another Canadian Seller: I've heard good things about is Dale's Alignment and Brakes. I believe they are also a site sponsor here. I've never personally dealt with them, but definitely give them a holler.
Pads:- Lots of options, preferences, and these are really more suited for purpose. Track pads, Street pads, Performance pads, Long Life pads...
- I've had good luck with HAWK HPS pads. I've used Ferodo pads as well but the ones I got were ultra squeeky and super dusty (can't recall the model though). EBC Red and EBC Green have both been recommended to me by various people. As for differences, I found the following thread somewhat useful (
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f68/ebc-red-green-1857/) but do
your own research,
- Locally, I've gone to MopaC on 16th. They typically stock the HAWK HPS pads. They work well.
- I cannot say anything for or against NAPA brake pads. My Mom's 2001 Outback runs them and the car stops just fine for her needs.
- I thinking of trying out the EBC red stuff pads, next on the soon-to-be Brembo'd Forester.
Fluid:- I use the ATE Typ200 because I bought half a dozen cans of it when I found it on sale. ATE, Ferodo, Motul ... Just make sure it's compatible with your brake system. The bigger Brembo calipers are better at dissipating heat and thus, typically, heat up your fluid less. Spending $25/L vs $10/L on fluid isn't really necessary unless you are really giving 'er hard on mountain roads or on track days.
- It is important to do a full and proper bleed. For those who do this regularly,
Speed Bleeders are akin to sliced bread and assay's of cats.
Lube (optional):- see:
Topic: Brake caliper slider pin lube- My preference is listed as is the preference of many others.
Extras:- Tools are pretty standard: 19mm to take the wheels off, 14mm for the calipers, 12mm for the front pins and maybe 10mm for the rear pins, a torque wrench comes in handy if you want to be precise. A flare nut wrench comes in handy for the Air Bleeder screw (8mm or 10mm, i forget).
- The labour is explained in fantastic detail in the
service manuals. I would always recommend reading the whole chapter before starting the work, the 'Mechanism and Function' section available in some of the older editions which helps to fill in some supplementary bits.
- Youtube has many videos on the subject
Lastly:- All brake pads
must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance.
-
STOPTECH: Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures FAQPM me if you would like me to recommend you a mechanic who I trust and has good experience with Subies.
