Ok after buttoning up the cooling system, that’s where the real shitshow started. Went to install the powerstop brake lines, the front factory hardline fittings were approximately twice the torque spec, it was terrifying trying to get those undone with fears of stripping the nut. They really cracked loudly when they let go. The rears were easier except once I put the new rear pads in and put the lines on, torqued them etc they leaked. The right rear line had a bad thread cut into it, and it damaged the flare nut. So I sent away for a set of lines under rock auto warranty, and went ahead and cut the line to replace the flare nut, but when I went to reflare the line, the pin on the flare tool broke off into the line. Real bad luck. Ended up having to cut the line again, drill out the hardened tool, break off a drill bit in it as a new pin, JB weld it in and pray it would work. Luckily it did, but the rear lines leaked still at the oem torque spec. I looked online and a lot of people seem to have the same issue with all sorts of aftermarket rear lines, and one suppliers remedy was to put a brass crush washer between the flare nut and the line. I ended up torquing the LR to 50% over spec and the RR to 25% over spec to get them to stop leaking. Conveniently while I was waiting for warranty lines my other front rotor showed up so I finished up the front brakes as well with another new set of pads and rotors.
I also had my dad help me prototype some brake cooling for the front.
Along the way I learned that this car likely had an oil cooler and brake backing plates and hoses installed at some point before I owned it, as there were signs of them being there.
