Author Topic: Mason's 2003 STI swapped forester (Read 9165 times)

Mason · « **Reply #25 on:** July 21, 2018, 07:18:37 am »

Quote from: DaDuke99 on July 21, 2018, 02:04:59 am

I did this today, but mine was a domestic and the mirror opposite of yours.
Your run looks good, your connections are just under your steering assembly I'm guessing?
Did you not run the 45 at all? I don't see it in the pics

Connections are right at the input shaft for the rack. I needed to Jack the transmission up as far as possible to reach the return line connection. The 45 is in there, but it is pretty much impossible to get a picture (it is TIGHT in there).

Was yours leaking??

DaDuke99 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 21, 2018, 12:20:13 pm »

No, I was actually removing it and the power steering assembly to put into another vehicle that's missing it entirely after having an ej20 swapped in

SubieRoo · « **Reply #27 on:** July 21, 2018, 08:23:48 pm »

Man solid to see you putting in some big progress here. 3 - 4 weeks and this rocket is going to be ridiculous!

Mason · « **Reply #28 on:** July 24, 2018, 11:25:36 pm »

Today was filled with downs, and downs.

While cleaning the block I noticed that one of the power steering bracket bolts were loose, I pulled the bolt...

MVIMG_20180720_173440 by mason rice, on Flickr

That doesn't look very good.. Investigation continues

MVIMG_20180724_113453 by mason rice, on Flickr

Yep missing some threads. went to Canadian Tire and picked up a Tap set, and bored one size larger.

MVIMG_20180724_164454 by mason rice, on Flickr

Everything went really smooth for this.

While digging around I found that the "timing belt cover gasket" was pretty stretched out and I couldn't get it to seat proper. I pulled the Crank pulley and all the covers off. I discovered that a bunch of power steering fluid and engine degreaser had ended up getting onto the belt. I didn't intend on changing the belt, but being covered in itshay, and with unknown km I decided it was best. AFR Auto just so happened to have a kit at their shop, so I grabbed it and started right away

(cleaned and lined up)

MVIMG_20180724_161617 by mason rice, on Flickr

New itshay

MVIMG_20180724_150253 by mason rice, on Flickr

Installed

MVIMG_20180724_151353 by mason rice, on Flickr

MVIMG_20180724_161443 by mason rice, on Flickr

MVIMG_20180724_161602 by mason rice, on Flickr

MVIMG_20180724_161608 by mason rice, on Flickr

and the new cover gasket

MVIMG_20180724_162250 by mason rice, on Flickr

While putting everything back together I ended up snapping the 8mm bolt on the RH cam sprocket. I will retrieve that after getting the tools from Canadian Tire. I tossed the Powersteering pump back on and the other bracket hole stripped

I knew it was coming because there was metal shavings around the out side, but I was hoping it will hold.

MVIMG_20180724_163949 by mason rice, on Flickr

The End for Today

Well, it should have been. Instead of going to the gym tonight I decided to grab those tools from Canadian Tire. I retrieved the broken bolt with little issues and things were great. I mounted the cam seal cover and one of the other 8mm bolts snapped while I was threading it in using a socket extension to hand tighten it. Things are not great I set up to retrieve another bolt and started to drill a hole for the reverse thread. This is when the tip on the drill bit busted in the bolt Things are really bad. I still had one size bigger that I could use. I could not get the drill bit out and figured that I would just be able to drill it out I was wrong. The larger bit deflected off the smaller bit that was stuck and ended up messing the treads up AND breaking. Things are officially messed up

Mason · « **Reply #29 on:** July 30, 2018, 04:26:55 pm »

The plugs I ordered off amazon arrived and they are awesome. Super easy to install, water proof, cheap, and they look great.

IMG_20180727_153025 by mason rice, on Flickr

IMG_20180727_204708 by mason rice, on Flickr

IMG_20180730_152206 by mason rice, on Flickr

Luckily Tiny WRX was parting out their monster and I was able to grab their cam gear off the blown EJ207 for a decent price. I spent a good bit of time, some brake clean, and a good magnet to ensure that there was no metal in the oil passages before installing.

IMG_20180730_160329 by mason rice, on Flickr

Since I had the timing tensioner off to install the cam gear I thought it was a good idea to prime it again. while I was holding it I noticed that the bushing on the arm was tight to turn.

IMG_20180730_144837 by mason rice, on Flickr

IMG_20180730_144919 by mason rice, on Flickr

It was a really good idea to prime it again. Inspect your stuff before installing. I feel like this car has been a string of bad luck so far and nothing will go smoothly, I am pretty unmotivated to do anything on the car.

Asstuna · « **Reply #30 on:** July 30, 2018, 04:35:16 pm »

For a moment I thought your super easy to install "plugs" were spark plugs so I came in to itshay on your thread. Then I saw the pictures.

Fire fixes everything.

Mason · « **Reply #31 on:** July 31, 2018, 10:38:44 pm »

I don't know why people hate changing the spark plugs on these, they are super easy to get to.. when the engine is on the ground...

I called AFR Auto to get a new timing belt tensioner and explained over the phone what was wrong. Within 24 hours they emailed me that my new tensioner had already arrived. Not only did they get a new one, but it is also OEM replacement, and not the gates one. Super happy with the level of service they give me.

IMG_20180731_144109 by mason rice, on Flickr

MVIMG_20180731_144102 by mason rice, on Flickr

Belt is on and ready to go

MVIMG_20180731_155507 by mason rice, on Flickr

Now I am trying to figure out injectors. The current injectors are 565cc which would explain the peak boost of 17.5psi. with the SR40 turbo it should be happy around 19-20PS, which mean I need bigger injectors.

SubieRoo · « **Reply #32 on:** August 01, 2018, 12:28:01 pm »

565CC = 17.5lb of boost

That equates to..

32.28CC = 1lb of boost.

Therefore,

You should get 1050CC injectors.

And turn up the boost to 32.5lb?

Mason · « **Reply #33 on:** August 02, 2018, 05:26:43 pm »

The search for injectors lead me to Airboy Tuning to figure out appropriate cc. I mentioned that he had previously tuned the vehicle. On file there is only 1 APS SR40 that has been tuned, back in 2009. It didn't seem to line up with my vehicle either. I contacted subieroo and he gave me the the name of the owner before him to figure it out. Long story short, he bought the car as was and apparently the owner before "vanished". Search for info died..

until he messaged me back to say that it has a "spec c engine". Well I didn't really even know that? I checked for the engine code to confirm and it has been peeled off?

IMG_20180802_163847 by mason rice, on Flickr

IMG_20180802_163827 by mason rice, on Flickr

Little bit suspicious. I stole this picture of the ECU from the PO. The only code similar to this one according to the 207 thread on nosiac is GDBB4JH which is from a 2002 limited WRX STI

FB_IMG_1533250349672 by mason rice, on Flickr

Next was the transmission code. TY856WB1CA which is for a either and STI or type RA

Is there any way to identify this engine without the stickers or lookingat the cams? I doubt it has a Spec C engine at this point

mojikita · « **Reply #34 on:** August 02, 2018, 05:48:06 pm »

Your gearbox code is listed 5 down.

http://www.spec-c.com/what-model-is-my-impreza/

Mason · « **Reply #35 on:** August 02, 2018, 05:55:21 pm »

Quote from: mojikita on August 02, 2018, 05:48:06 pm

Your gearbox code is listed 5 down.

http://www.spec-c.com/what-model-is-my-impreza/

Thank you for that! That was the first link I looked at. A couple other places has controversy on the transmission, but the only difference is the LSD center diff

Jukka · « **Reply #36 on:** August 03, 2018, 10:45:02 am »

I don't think it's a spec-C engine based on the pictures you posted.

2 things stand out to me. Most of the Spec-C engines came with a factory aluminum wrinkle red turbo inlet, which flows better than any of the silicone ones on the market.

The fact that someone would change out an uber rare, better performing piece to a Perrin piece seems suspicious. Unless it's an early Spec-C that came with the slightly larger plastic turbo inlet.

The other big indicator is that your engine looks like it's got a separate intake manifold and TGV set up. The Spec-C engines all had the long runner intake manifolds without TGV's from factory.

Only other way to ensure it is a spec-c motor is by running the serial number off the motor (should be stamped on the top of the block) and seeing what it comes back with.

Mason · « **Reply #37 on:** August 03, 2018, 01:02:37 pm »

V7 *blah blah blah* The TGV are deleted from the factory. The factory deletion is incomplete, even on the Spec C and even on the Type RA.

According to nasioc it isn't until v8 that the tgv are completely deleted. They also only mention the inlet being on the s202. I do agree that the engine most likely isn't a spec c. With the ecu and transmission I bet it is from a limited, which was miscommuncated in a game of telephone over the years.

Here is what I can find stamped on the engine

S20C 701 near ps pump

087100 on each side of the split on block where transmission bolts up

B576349 stamped above the starter housing

I can't really find any way to track Jdm vins, I assume the vin is GDB576349

SubieRoo · « **Reply #38 on:** August 03, 2018, 09:37:40 pm »

I talked with him about that too,

http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7591

Shows all of the stock maps you can download for this ECU (Awesome resource BTW if you end up starting from a stock map)

Then I found this,

http://files.jdmvip.com/SubaruFast/technical%20reference/spreadsheets/JDM_Engine_Code_Model.xls

Which listed EVERY ecu based on the numbers in that picture.

(Note, these are long.. you have to scroll over. ECU marking is the last one which I bolded and underlined.)

JDM   B   MY02   7   1-Jun-01   31-Oct-02   Sedan WRX STI Type RA Spec C   GDBB4FH   EJ207DW4EJ   10100BH630   11008AA720   12006AB430   12200A210/240   12100AA161/180   13037AA340   13052AA340   11039AB370   13217AA280   14411AA321   22611AG970/971

JDM   B   MY02   7   1-Jun-01   31-Oct-02   Sedan WRX STI Type RA Spec C (OPC)   GDBB4FH   EJ207DW4ER   10100BK000   11008AA720   12006AB430   12200A210/240   12100AA161/180   13037AA340   13052AA340   11039AB370   13217AA280   14411AA321   22611AG970/971

JDM   B   MY02   7   1-Jun-01   31-Oct-02   Sedan S202 STI Version   GDBB4FH   EJ207DW4ER   10100BK000   11008AA720   12006AB430   12200A210/240   12100AA161/180           11039AB370

JDM   B   MY02   7   1-Jun-01   31-Oct-02   Sedan WRX STI LIMITED   GDBB4JH   EJ207DW4ER   10100BK000   11008AA720   12006AB430   12200A210/240   12100AA161/180   13037AA340   13052AA340   11039AB370   13217AA280   14411AA373   22611AH970

Based on that, the Spec C model should have the AG970 - the Limited is the AH970.

He originally sold it to me as a Spec C, but based on the ECU coding I came to the conclusion that it is the Limited. And like you say.. he states the original owner up and flew away, so my theories kind of came to a halt as well. That's why I just listed it as a EJ207 V7 - maybe I'm wrong and it is the Spec C, but I don't think so.

Anyways - good to see you on track with this, glad that tensioner came in so quickly for you!

Mason · « **Reply #39 on:** August 03, 2018, 11:07:55 pm »

I didn't know you did that much digging into it. Hopefully you didn't get ripped off over it, I don't believe the PPO intentionally misinformed anyone based on the conversation we had. You were definately honest about the vehicle to me when I purchased!

Case closed, nothing special about this EJ207

SubieRoo · « **Reply #40 on:** August 04, 2018, 09:11:41 am »

He's a solid guy, I think just not as involved in this project as I was or you are now. His Supra is his baby.

And I was still incredibly happy with the engine still a V7 workhorse! Once you're done everything you're doing too.. it'll be a beast.

Mason · « **Reply #41 on:** August 13, 2018, 12:27:06 am »

Engine went back in a few days ago and i have been slowly plugging away at it since.

IMG_20180812_234823 by mason rice, on Flickr

I probably should have labeled and took pictures of the connections and hoses before pulling them off, but why take the joy out of trying to figure it out. I tore all the AC stuff out since it needed too much work to get running again. Maybe in the spring I will get motivated to figure it out, but right now it was just an eye sore.

IMG_20180812_234658 by mason rice, on Flickr

Finally finished off the power steering hoses. Electrical tape is keeping the braids from fraying until I can figure out a better solution. Notice in the top left that there is a sensor plugged into the downpipe. Originally I planned on getting a bunge welded to the uppipe for it, which I believe is the traditional place to have it. Without having at cats in my car, the information is useless anyways and this was a far cheaper and easier option to have a "working" gauge.

IMG_20180812_234739 by mason rice, on Flickr

I had some hose left over thankfully and i was able to use it to replace a fuel line that had a tear in it. (verified that they are okay to use for fuel

)

This engine bay is a horrible mess of wires and hoses. I would really like to simplify it somehow, but everything seems to have a home. hopefully tomorrow I can get it running

SubieRoo · « **Reply #42 on:** August 13, 2018, 07:07:14 pm »

Nice! Looking forward to hearing it crank over again. And ya, you're right.. I thought of tucking the wires too, but with the amount of in and out it was for the engine at the time I figured I'd wait until it was 110% staying in there.

Mason · « **Reply #43 on:** August 14, 2018, 01:02:36 am »

The lady and chow took off last night on a mini vacation and left me with the entire day to get this thing running. I spent a ton of time in the garage, but progress seemed slow.. Until it was time to turn the car over.

A Few weeks ago on facebook I entered a draw that Sven was having and won a Treadstone FMIC. So stoked that I was finally able to get it on!

IMG_20180814_000507 by mason rice, on Flickr

IMG_20180814_000444 by mason rice, on Flickr

IMG_20180814_000454 by mason rice, on Flickr

A Project I had a few days ago was painting the FMIC Piping, air intake, and coolant tank. I used VHT Black pearl Engine paint and it turned out really good. Hopefully it lasts. I would love to get rid of the blue greddy Couplers, but thats a project for another time.

IMG_20180814_000526 by mason rice, on Flickr

For some reason my anxiety was through the roof once everything was ready to go.

*Primed, and turned keys*

*Nothing happened*

*Primed, and turn keys*

*Nothing happened*

I double checked the wiring for the starter and everything looked good. I turned the keys again and nothing! I pulled the plug for the clutch position and ran a wire thinking that it might have been messed up.

*Turned keys*

*crickets chirping*

I hit up nasioc to figure it out. Turns out that at some point the ignition wire for the starter had came up plugged without me noticing. Easy fix and for the last time I turned it over AND IT STARTED!!. Instantly the first thing i noticed was a high pitch squealing. Spent a few hours swapping clamps, adjusting FMIC Piping and spraying dish soap on the joints. Couldn't track the leak down for the life of me. Well The car is Warm, everything else is functioning as it should, time to take it down the block without a hood and bumper in the typical project car fashion.

This ended in an abrupt halt on the drive way when the hill assist decided to be a untcay. After some stalling, I figured out a terribly inefficient way to unlock the brakes and rolled the car down the drive way in neutral. I think the can be fixed with a simple adjustment. I hit the road to take a quick drive to the end of the street and back. Peak boost was 10psi. I didn't go WOT due to lack of tune for the down pipe and new FMIC, but i needed to function test before booking a tune.

After a bit of reading I came across a similar boost leak issue. Turns out there is a small hole in the Greddy BOV and if the rubber diaphram fails, the hole will leak. BINGO

IMG_20180814_000629 by mason rice, on Flickr

Air is Squealing its way out of this hole. apparently NRG makes a replacement diaphram that is far superior to the Greddy, But is 50 dollars on amazon plus 30 dollars for shipping.

seat safety switch · « **Reply #44 on:** August 14, 2018, 07:23:33 am »

I wonder what the hole is actually supposed to be for?

Maybe you can epoxy a duck call onto it.

Mason · « **Reply #45 on:** August 14, 2018, 08:34:15 am »

Quote from: seat safety switch on August 14, 2018, 07:23:33 am

I wonder what the hole is actually supposed to be for?

Maybe you can epoxy a duck call onto it.

It's to prevent air lock while the valve is moving. The diaphragm is suppose to keep it from leaking. Unfortunately it's not so simple

Mason · « **Reply #46 on:** August 14, 2018, 09:45:53 am »

Pulled it apart and confirmed that the diaphragm is the issue.

IMG_20180814_093008 by mason rice, on Flickr

IMG_20180814_093055 by mason rice, on Flickr

DaDuke99 · « **Reply #47 on:** August 14, 2018, 02:31:35 pm »

I still like the duck call idea.

Does your hill assist not disengage automatically after a bit?

Mason · « **Reply #48 on:** August 14, 2018, 03:13:15 pm »

Quote from: DaDuke99 on August 14, 2018, 02:31:35 pm

I still like the duck call idea.

Does your hill assist not disengage automatically after a bit?

I'll hook up a duck call if I ever run a bov to atomsoehere for you guys.

My dumbass forgot that I still had the bypass for the clutch pedal. Hooked it back up and the hill start seems to be better. I haven't really tried it too much tho

It would stay engaged until I put the car in neutral and let the clutch all the way out.

SubieRoo · « **Reply #49 on:** August 14, 2018, 06:29:58 pm »

There's apparently a screw you can back off for hill assist to take it off/down.