Author Topic: SH FXT getting EJ257 (Read 5454 times)

SlowLGT · « **Reply #25 on:** September 05, 2015, 01:40:58 pm »

I agree. Break in procedures are just as controversial as what oil to use...

Tezzating · « **Reply #26 on:** September 10, 2015, 08:11:13 am »

Yep I think you just gotta make a choice and go with the one which makes the most sense to you.. same as oil choice. Pick one that others have success with it makes you feel confident.

Booked in with Sunny! 28th and I find out how good this build really is

Tezzating · « **Reply #27 on:** September 21, 2015, 11:53:36 am »

Installed the fuel pump 2 weekends ago. Its a "Racers Edge" Walbro clone which I snagged off a buddy for $50 BNIB. I followed these instructions http://www.iwsti.com/forums/diy-mods-and-installations/152257-walbro-255lph-pump-2008-sti-wrx-lgt.html which lead to long cranks, failures to start & excessively noisey priming, so out it came again last weekend and here's my additions to that post.

First, the correct sized O-ring is a Viton 203 (5/16 x 9/16 x 1/8) and you'll want two. I got mine from Fluid Power in Edmonton.
Secondly, you need to modify the pump & housing more than they show in that thread for a good fit.
Thirdly, yes a 341 will fit and using the OEM sock. Just keep the sock out of the way of the pickup line while re-assembling.

Tezzating · « **Reply #28 on:** September 29, 2015, 10:57:54 am »

Went to see Sunny yesterday, did dyno time and a bit of road testing. The 4EAT is kinda dumb and kinda sloppy, so I guess thats the next thing on the mod list

Posted the dyno sheet in the shutup forum http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=49294.msg597150#new
But 225.4AWHP & 250ft.lbs torque on 91 is the short of it

RockThePylon · « **Reply #29 on:** September 29, 2015, 11:24:13 am »

The 4EAT ruins everything.

Very nice numbers, good jorb!

SpdDmn · « **Reply #30 on:** September 29, 2015, 12:36:02 pm »

Saw this on sf.org, nice!

Tezzating · « **Reply #31 on:** September 29, 2015, 04:36:48 pm »

Thanks guys ! I'm stoked to have it back to 100% and properly tuned

the numbers are about where I expected them to be. Would have been interesting to see how much power it made (or didnt make) with the old EJ255 & Cobb maps for comparisons sake.

deedz · « **Reply #32 on:** September 30, 2015, 02:54:11 pm »

Quote from: Tezzating on September 29, 2015, 10:57:54 am

Went to see Sunny yesterday, did dyno time and a bit of road testing. The 4EAT is kinda dumb and kinda sloppy, so I guess thats the next thing on the mod list
Posted the dyno sheet in the shutup forum http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=49294.msg597150#new
But 225.4AWHP & 250ft.lbs torque on 91 is the short of it

Such a great build here, now subscribed!

The 4EAT isn't ruining everything here as RockThePylon stated. Your tune looks extremely reserved... Auto's are trickier to tune. Did you stick with a Shell 91 tune out of convenience? Just curious because my FXT was originally tuned on Shell 91, but it's since been proven to be a pretty ittshay gas.

Also, you'll find there is an overall lack of love around here for the 4EAT or any auto for that matter.

I would just beef up the 4EAT with a rebuild/mod and high stall TQ Converter from a shop like IPT or Level 10 (online). That's my plan for my 07. As far as auto's go the 4EAT is a fairly decent platform. An added bonus of the auto is constant turbo spool.

My 07 goes pretty damn good. I'm not on a final tune at the moment as the motor has been rebuilt and adjustments were simply made via e-tune. However With the stock block, smaller turbo and smaller (older) STi TMIC the numbers were 305 AWTQ and 265 AWHP (Shell 91). The engine has recently been rebuilt with an 08+ STI Block, OEM new 08+ STI crankshaft (balanced), JE pistons 8.5:1 99.75 bore (balanced), K1 tech rods (balanced), ACL race bearings, ARP head studs, 08+ new oem STI intercooler, New VF48 Turbo, 04 STI intake manifold , Deatschwerks 650CC fuel injectors, secondary air system delete, and a few other bolt-ons. I'm currently installing ID 850 Injectors instead of the DW's and will be getting a retune soon which will be on Husky 94.

Tezzating · « **Reply #33 on:** October 02, 2015, 10:55:45 am »

At this point I'm well out of money for this as a project.. and it more than meets my needs as a DD. 24MPG to Edmonton & back on Wednesday was nice

4EAT gets no love, but its a pretty tough little box from what I've read and constant boost is nice. Also its just nice to stick it in drive and go for mundane tasks like the daily commute and grocery shopping, or long road trips. Manu-matic mode is a welcome addition when its fun time tho!

Anyway, I figured people might like to know the actual cost involved in doing this.. there's all sorts of ways of doing your engine, everyone needs to figure out their own way. This is mine.
I've got access to a workshop, machine shop, welding shop and all the tools so there's zero labor charges into this aside from the original rip & diagnostics by the dealership.
Prices shown include freight, taxes, etc.

New OEM Engine Hardware:
EJ257 short block
Master gasket set
Head studs
Oil & water pumps
Timing belt & idlers
Oil cooler
Oil cooler fittings/bolts/hoses
Oil pan & pickup
Thermostat & housing
Subaglue grey & black (OEM adhesive)
Exhaust gaskets (manifold to up, up to turbo, turbo to DP, DP donut)
AC & Alt/PS belts
Spark plugs

$5176.87

Used OEM Engine Hardware:
'11 W25 heads/valve covers/cams/AVCS gears
'11 Intake manifold, fuel rails/injectors, wiring harness, throttle body, TGV, MAP sensor
'14 VF48, TMIC, BPV

$2522.56

Re-used FXT parts:
Coolant crossover pipe, heater hard & soft lines
Dip stick
Exhaust cam gears, timing covers, crank pulley/bolt
Barometric, knock, coolant temp, oil pressure, cam & crank angle sensors
Coil packs
Turbo coolant tank
Air box/intake
Cat back exhaust
Cobb 3" catted DP
APv2

$0

Misc. Parts:
Assembly lube
Permatex gasket sealant
Shell Rotella T (break in period), T6 (post break in)
Subaru smurf blood coolant & treatment
Turbo heat shield

$230.51

Dyno tune @ Airboy

$509.50

So in terms of purely building the EJ257, getting it into the FXT running, broken in and tuned the total is..
$8208.93

But with the new power I also wanted to address the brakes, which kinda sucked the day I got it and sitting a month and a half did no favours to them.. add in the increased power they were a recipe for an accident.

New brake hardware:
Centric premium blank rotors
PosiQuiet ceramic pads
Goodridge stainless teflon lines
DOT3 brake fluid

$670.20

So the engine upgrade, plus brake upgrade gets us to..
$8879.13

I also include the following in this build, because if it didnt drop a bearing and roach the bottom end totally, I wouldnt have done this swap. Based on the dealers findings, and my own examination of the old engine, I wanted to replace everything that the oil touched.

Towing fee's. Rod bearing let go 215km *133 miles* away from home..

$946.00

Dealership shop time; remove & diagnose.
$1407.00

So all in this adventure left an $11,232.13 dent in my wallet :O For a car I'd owned 7 months when it died !

Rebuild EJ255 would have saved about $3k. But then I'd have spent over $8k to have a stock engine again!

Upgrade EJ255 (Crawford short block), bigger turbo & IC would have cost the same as going full STI..

jellynuts · « **Reply #34 on:** October 02, 2015, 11:21:23 am »

Thanks for sharing that info. Welp.

RedndWhite · « **Reply #35 on:** October 02, 2015, 12:01:43 pm »

Quote from: jellynuts on October 02, 2015, 11:21:23 am

Thanks for sharing that info. Welp.

Heh, don't ruin the motor Jelly

I'm impressed, that was quite a lot of swapping done quickly, and the heat shield is a nice touch.

Tezzating · « **Reply #36 on:** October 20, 2015, 10:03:02 am »

Developed random electronics issues.. this might help someone.

P1572, P1578, bad idle, flaky cruise control & immobilizer from bad ECU ground. Moved engine harness grounds to top of intake manifold. Fixed!

Fuse 33 is important.. Without it you get ECU P0600 & P0700, TCU P1718, as I found during diagnosing above

Accessport cant clear TCU. Pulling -ve terminal for 2 hours doesnt clear TCU either. Autel MaxiScan cleared TCU, goodbye P0700.

P1572 - IMM Circuit Failure, Except Antenna Circuit
P1578 - Combination Meter Failure
P0600 - Serial Communication Link Malfunction
P0700 - Transmission Control System Malfunction
P1718 - AT CAN Communication Malfunction

P0600 lead to P1718, which sets P0700. P0700 is essentially "please check TCU for more info". P0700 disabled TCS, stability control & cruise.

Tezzating · « **Reply #37 on:** November 03, 2015, 08:37:14 am »

Finally got around to editing the video from the brake upgrade..

Tezzating · « **Reply #38 on:** November 06, 2015, 12:17:17 pm »

So some minor updates..

1. Having a custom plate delete, alt. cover & IC duct fabricated from brushed stainless. Should be ready next week
2. Installed a PAC SNI-1 to remove a persistant grounding loop whistle that was particularly bad when cold
3. Bought this and it'd going in to Kipp Scott next Tuesday for encoding.. hope it works! '13 STI dash with Monki mod for the Si drive & R.Diff lights. Bought a matching '13 multi-display too so it better work

SlowLGT · « **Reply #39 on:** November 06, 2015, 01:52:07 pm »

Quote from: Tezzating on November 06, 2015, 12:17:17 pm

So some minor updates..

1. Having a custom plate delete, alt. cover & IC duct fabricated from brushed stainless. Should be ready next week
2. Installed a PAC SNI-1 to remove a persistant grounding loop whistle that was particularly bad when cold
3. Bought this and it'd going in to Kipp Scott next Tuesday for encoding.. hope it works! '13 STI dash with Monki mod for the Si drive & R.Diff lights. Bought a matching '13 multi-display too so it better work

That dash is getting the car ready for 6 speed swap. I get it, you are just throwing us a hint at what is to come.

Tezzating · « **Reply #40 on:** November 10, 2015, 08:01:11 pm »

Nothing as ambitious as a 6 speed swap for my grocery getter.. I just wanted a proper dash with some useful gauges

Its so beautiful.. totally stoked on this modification. My custom fabbed pieces were finished today at the laser cutting joint too. Today was awesome !

FWIW.. the dash was $45 and $126 to program

Tezzating · « **Reply #41 on:** November 11, 2015, 07:43:50 pm »

A few more..

Can't believe how much vendors ask for those plates and belt covers! Lasermann Cuts in RD charged $12.50 for the two plates, and $20 for the alt cover. The welder at work folded the cover in the break for me, stoked.

Tezzating · « **Reply #42 on:** December 30, 2015, 02:28:37 pm »

So the Pioneer touchscreen started playing up.. wouldnt turn on when it was cold (which is basically always this time of year). Its going back under warranty and I aint driving without tunes, so I bought a 2016 *sic* Kenwood DDX-393 to replace it. Looks good, works good. Crimped up a new harness, program the PAC SWI and everything else plugged up and worked.
Also replaced the "woodgrain" trim piece with a GR8 STi trim piece

Had to replace the dash top multi-display.. avg. fuel economy & outside temp stopped working with the STi gauges.. installed one from a USDM '12 STI and voila.
You can see the "woodgrain" trim in this shot.

Also bought a whole GR8 console, this isnt a "drop in" solution unfortunately.. deciding if I should modify it to fit or sell it.

and some new shots of it just cos

Tezzating · « **Reply #43 on:** February 11, 2016, 03:19:53 pm »

$100 scored me a 2014 take off STI sedan exhaust.
Trimmed the bumpers to fit it. Drone was terrible, one of the exits on both mufflers is straight through! So I plugged 'em with stainless steel wool. Now it makes the correct Subaru GROO GROO noise without a deafening drone.
Also pulled the stuff out of the hatch, added sound deadening to the outer most panels (above the mufflers), across the back of the spare wheel well, and lover over strips around the sides and the bottom. Then used filter material to stuff the gaps behind the plastic panels, around/infront the air vents, under the spare wheel, and in a few air gaps between the spare and foam inserts.
Good news, its now as quiet as it was in cabin before swapping exhausts

Lets go for the install video...

Here's the brat brat brat video all pipes open

A short brat brat.. should you want my EJ257 powered Forester as your notification tone

Finally here's a clip with the outer pipes plugged up.

Bought a set of 2011 STI front LCA. These replace the troublesome & soft rear bushing with a ball joint. You need 2x 901000377 bolts to mount these on earlier GR8 or SH.
After getting the stock ones off the car I discovered there's an insert to mate the ball joints to the control arm. Part number 20216FA000 "Boss Traverse Link". Also needed 2x washers & cotter pins. THEN had to fabricate a bracket for the ride height control on the head lamps.

Other than the fab and smalls it is literally a bolt in fit.. the car tracks better with these in than it did with the old stock ones after re-installing them! hah

Please pardon how filthy it is under there..

New washer & cotter pin

Bracket. Its alloy RHS welded on

While under there, I found an oil leak.. we'd re-used the XT exhaust cam seals and I guess they've let go.
I've got the Company 23 tools catalog on order right now..

Tezzating · « **Reply #44 on:** March 07, 2016, 09:37:54 am »

Exhaust cams re-timed, chipped plastic cam gears replaced, oil leak fixed, new exhaust cam seals installed. Its a radiator out job, unless you hate yourself.

To rehash the math
D-AVCS rest position = 32
AVCS cam + Fixed Gear = +6 (38)
Skip two teeth = +15 (53)
Advance 2 notches = +2 (55)
55 exhaust retard is the XT/WRX position.

Marked out cam gear

Progress shots

Old chipped up plastic gear. The oil leak also very conveniently dripped right onto the hottest part of the exhaust

Less interesting is I did an oil change (Rotella T6 5W40), oil filter (OEM blue) & air filter (OEM), and replaced the timing cover gaskets lol Did LED upgrades for the high beam, park lamps, reverse & brakes. Need to replace the broken fog lamps at some point (they work but cracked).
Then went and washed the car and engine bay.. all up about 6 hours of work.