Snapchat-1436608306 by
mason rice, on Flickr
This Picture sums up my feelings right now about the car.
After finding out that both rads I have leak I decided to buy a brand new one. AFR again saving my assay and getting me this replacement OEM Koyo rad in a few hours at a good price
MVIMG_20180821_201135 by
mason rice, on Flickr
Installed, Burped and ready to go.
MVIMG_20180823_172937 by
mason rice, on Flickr
Took it for a rip down the block and back. Hit 13psi of boost and it would instantly drop down to about 10psi. getting better, but still leaking some valuable boost. I rigged up a boost leak tester with a PVC cap, a valve stem (free thanks to the local Kal Tire
) and a bike tire pump.
MVIMG_20180824_110804 by
mason rice, on Flickr
MVIMG_20180823_172935 by
mason rice, on Flickr
First leak! Lower clamp was on the bend preventing a good seal. slide it up and it stopped leaking
MVIMG_20180823_165310 by
mason rice, on Flickr
Second leak! the crank breaking hose (
?). looks to be an after market hose at tee. shortly after this picture was taking a broke that connection.
MVIMG_20180823_165316 by
mason rice, on Flickr
Went to home depot and they didn't have any plastic ones in the proper size. tossed some bling on there and hopefully a fix forever
MVIMG_20180824_110747 by
mason rice, on Flickr
While digging around in that area I found that the turbo inlet had started to slide off. I slid it back on and tightened the hose clamp. Turns out the worm gear was toast. Spent more time than I would like to admit putting a new clamp on, but it got done. The system will now hold a but of pressure, but slowly bleed off. the leak is coming from the other end of the crank case breather hose (
). This requires another tear down to fix. Hoping I can put a hose clamp on and tighten it down.