Topic: Beans Blue Bugeye STi - Turbo and Tune

[jellynuts]

Lol I was thinking this while wrapping it. At the same time, spending 800 + another tune to make 5-10 hp didn't make much sense either.

Sorry, to clarify, I wasn't mocking your effort; I was just amazed and impressed.  I can't disagree that it's better to be frugal right now, but an aftermarket downpipe + tune would net a 40hp/tq gain, not 5-10.  Here's mine with a catted DP. 


07 STi Tuned by Airboy by Jonny W, on Flickr

The stock DP is restricted not only in it's diameter, but the wastegate is greeted by a solid plate as opposed to an open bellhouse. 



Regardless, your Bugeye is super clean and journaling your attention to detail is never a bad thing. 

[Dr Beans]

Weird, everything I read says 7-10 for the single cat downpipe.

Is that stock boost levels? And was the base map a stock map as well?

Now I wish I bought a downpipe.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

I believe that's not stock boost levels. That's a full re-tune, or "Stage 2" if you will.

[jellynuts]

Yes, the baseline is completely stock.  I forget all the numbers...  Stock boost is 14.5psi? 

My downpipe is a high flow catted Invidia, and new boost level...  19?  20?  I don't remember  

Even if you went with a DP now, at least 1) your bolts will be easier to break, 2) you're better at heat-wrapping.  And if you keep things status quo, then you've saved $800. 

Winner winner, chicken dinner.

Except, like most of us here, you're driving an EJ.  So we all lose. 

[tperkins]

I heat wrapped my downpipe, then read a bunch about collecting oil, fire hazard blah blah. Then took it to impact coatings for ceramic coating, I also have a PTP turbo blanket.


I think that Beans is saying proper tune, vs proper tune with DP. One page back he made 250 whp.

[VTAKLOL]

FWIW, my wagon made 270 to the wheels on Sunny’s dyno, with intake and catless turboback at ~19 psi.

[Dr Beans]

Yeah I did a bit more research because I was kicking myself on missing out on those gains. Seems that those are mostly due from a tune and boost levels. The double catted downpipe also is way more restrictive than the JDM one.

Either way I wish I could pick up that much tq in the midrange. I think that's the only positive out of the 2.5L.

FWIW, my wagon made 270 to the wheels on Sunny’s dyno, with intake and catless turboback at ~19 psi.

Do you have the twin scroll V8? Your car made good power.

I planned to add power later on, but most of that will come from a new turbo. 

I think that Beans is saying proper tune, vs proper tune with DP. One page back he made 250 whp.

Yeah that's what I mean. You can pick up a good amount of midrange with just a new tune vs stock map.

[VTAKLOL]

Do you have the twin scroll V8? Your car made good power. 

Nope, single scroll Version 7, same as yours. I used what yours made as the baseline for mine and figured anything over and above that was a bonus, so I was more than happy with what it made. 

[Dr Beans]

Nope, single scroll Version 7, same as yours. I used what yours made as the baseline for mine and figured anything over and above that was a bonus, so I was more than happy with what it made. 

What intake? Nothing else done?

Looks to be good for 20hp/tq throughout the full range if nothing else was done.

[VTAKLOL]

What intake? Nothing else done?

Looks to be good for 20hp/tq throughout the full range if nothing else was done.

Cobb SF intake with their airbox and APS exhaust. That's all I did, power-wise.

[Dr Beans]

So maybe 2K of mods for 20hp/tq throughout the midrange... plus faster spool.

At this point I'm only trying to make myself feel better.

I'm jealous.

[RockThePylon]

new turbo.

Ehhhhh. Worry about the downpipe when that happens.

[Dr Beans]

I got the manifold pulled off and fuel lines and clamps replaced. Hopefully this sorts the fuel leaking issue.



I then started to install the AOS. Since the kit was designed for a LHD vehicle it typically mounts where the brake master cylinder is located on a RHD car, which obviously is an issue. I thought about mounting it where the stock boost solenoid is mounted, but there wasn't enough room to properly mount it vertically. The next option was where the IC spray was located (where the LHD master brake cylinder is located), but the drain on the bottom of the AOS sat about 3 inches lower than where the hose needed to drain back into the engine; the AOS would have to fill with at least 3 inches of oil for it to even start draining back to the engine rendering it basically useless as the internal baffles would no longer work.

After a bunch of modification I was able to mount it where the A/C condenser typically sits. Half plumbed up:



Tapped into the heater core hoses rather than the turbo. I used a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer.



I also used the stock PVC as the one included with the kit made the return line drain about 1.5" higher. If the stock is used and the return line is routed properly underneath the manifold then the drain line is level.



After determining it would work, I created a bracket off of the A/C mounting point.

[YvanF]

Nicely done!

[Dr Beans]

Anyone know how to set up a STi bugeye for better handling? I'm thinking its similar to a 2002 WRX or 2004 STi. I'd like to improve turn-in and induce oversteer.

Bigger rear sway bar, new bushings all around (suspension, shift, rack & pinion, ect.), coilovers? Depending on the drop, I may need to space out the lower control arms and tie rod ends to avoid any castor or bump steer issues?

Does the bugeye STi suffer from the same anti-dive geometry that the WRX does? How much camber and toe can I get out of these cars? I was hoping for -1.7 in the front and maybe -1.3 in the rear? I also was going to look into getting the rear sub frame locks to secure it to the chassis. 

I already have brakes, rims, and tires.

Basically anyone have any experience on the do's and don'ts?

[diamondedge]

Anyone know how to set up a STi bugeye for better handling? I'm thinking its similar to a 2002 WRX or 2004 STi. I'd like to improve turn-in and induce oversteer.

Bigger rear sway bar, new bushings all around (suspension, shift, rack & pinion, ect.), coilovers? Depending on the drop, I may need to space out the lower control arms and tie rod ends to avoid any castor or bump steer issues?

Does the bugeye STi suffer from the same anti-dive geometry that the WRX does? How much camber and toe can I get out of these cars? I was hoping for -1.7 in the front and maybe -1.3 in the rear? I also was going to look into getting the rear sub frame locks to secure it to the chassis. 

I already have brakes, rims, and tires.

Basically anyone have any experience on the do's and don'ts?

You should have the aluminium front control arms which have a little bit more caster than me. I believe the anti-dive geometry is there. I would recommend the anti-lift kit and top hats for caster adding mods. Then, as much front camber as you can get. -1.7 is nothing on the GD chassis.

A popular sway bar setup I've seen is Whiteline 24/24 or Cusco/Superpro 27f/27r set to your liking. I personally have Whiteline 22f/24r because my wagon can't run a bigger bar than that up front.
Whiteline and Superpro also make roll center correction kits when you do lower it.
Don't over lower it.

[SlowLGT]

Please go read the suspension set up chapters of Autocross to win by Dennis Grant. It is free on Far North Racing's website. Depends on car, driver, and goal, the "sporty" quick turn in feel may not necessarily equal faster lap times as we are made to believe. But if that is the feel you are after, just get a spring/shock combo that has a lot of rebound.

[Dr Beans]

Well I guess its time for a yearly update.

I ended up moving the gauges on the A-pillar and center steering wheel console to the factory clock location.




Then I ended up buying a steering wheel, uckfaying up the clock spring on install, re-soldering clock spring, and then figuring out later on that the airbag circuit needed a resistor to get the dash light to shut off.









Some ricey parts.







And I finally settled on what I needed for suspension to get it feeling better.

[10secdream]

Beautiful setup. Where are the driving gloves for the wheel?

[tperkins]

My favorite bugeye <3

Nice wheel!

[Dr Beans]

Beautiful setup. Where are the driving gloves for the wheel?

Ha, yeah I was thinking about gloves when looking at the leather vs suede. But the the extra $150 for leather wasn't worth it. It's honestly fine without gloves. I think that whole argument is the internet being the internet.

At least it's ready for when I finally get some time to track the car.

[10secdream]

Thats fair. I imagine you don't eat in your car or have excessively dirty hands.

So whats the breakdown of the suspension components? Are they currently installed or a winter project?

[tperkins]

I have the same wheel, have never worn gloves, and it is holding up well. I think it has been 3? years now. That said I don't daily the car, and am putting like 4500 km on a year.

[chico_kj_23]

When is the install party?

[10secdream]

When is the install party?

Let me know. I am good for drinking beer and passing tools.