Author Topic: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)  (Read 4417 times)

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Offline Zaider

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Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« on: May 28, 2014, 07:47:19 pm »
Hey Folks,

Well, my wife and I are planning another big trip. In the fall, we'll be going backpacking in South America for three months. Right now, the focus is on Peru, Chile and Argentina but we might add another country (Brazil?), depending on how the time is looking.

We've done a fair bit of travelling (9 weeks in Europe, multiple Caribbean Islands, Iceland, Israel, etc) so we're not new to it at all, and this will be a bit more of a relaxed style trip, doing more AirB&B and VRBO style accommodations rather than hostels. We're both very into food and restaurants so we're interested in any recommendations of that sort. My wife wants to do a lot of writing and I want to relax and read a lot. It's one of those "Before we have kids" sorta trips.

In Peru, we'll probably be avoiding driving ourselves around as apparently the drivers are absolutely terrible and there are too many accidents to risk it, but for Chile and Argentina, we'll be renting an SUV of some sort and driving ourselves around.

I am looking for insight on places to visit while we're there and things to do.

Here's what we've got so far:

Peru
Lima - I've heard you really only want to spend 2-3 days here as there isn't much to see or do. Thoughts?
Cuzco - Spend several days here to acclimatize
Machu Pichu - I am still up in the air as to whether i'll risk the hike with my knee but my wife really wants to do it (so I probably will)
Ollantaytambo - Apparently a small town in the vicinity of Machu Pichu which has a really old salt mine and a cool inca fortress
Nazca Lines - the best way to see these is to charter a small plane?
Lake Titicaca - Apparently the Peru side isn't that great, but anyone have any ideas for this?

Chile
Santiago - 7 days here, hanging out and doing tours, etc
Valparaiso - 7 days here
San Pedro de Atacama - 5 days?
Easter Island  - Flights are about $1000 per person and then accomodations are about $700 for a week.... not 100% sold on going there but since we're travelling for 3 months, we probably could afford the stopover and it might be nice to be warm for a week... and when else would i go see it?

Argentina
Buenos Aries - 10 days?
Glacier Perito Moreno - Really cool glacier
Tierra Del Fuego - for some reason, i'd really like to check out the area... maybe do a boat tour or something like that... not sure why im drawn to it though...
Igauzu Falls

Where else should we go? We've only just started really in-depth researching so we're totally open to ideas.

Thanks in advance!
-Z
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Offline Fredrico

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2014, 10:42:06 pm »
Peru
Lima - I've heard you really only want to spend 2-3 days here as there isn't much to see or do. Thoughts?
Cuzco - Spend several days here to acclimatize
Machu Pichu - I am still up in the air as to whether i'll risk the hike with my knee but my wife really wants to do it (so I probably will)
Ollantaytambo - Apparently a small town in the vicinity of Machu Pichu which has a really old salt mine and a cool inca fortress
Nazca Lines - the best way to see these is to charter a small plane?
Lake Titicaca - Apparently the Peru side isn't that great, but anyone have any ideas for this?

I just got back from 3 weeks in Peru. We hiked the inka trail to Machu, Colca Canyon, and a 3 day Amazon trek.

Cuzco is an excellent city to both help acclimatize and explore. What accommodations are you using? (Hotel/Hostel? )
Being at altitude for the first time, I noticed that everything cardiovascular took longer to recover from. From walking around town, to laughing hard at jokes. Sometimes you wake up just feeling out of breath.

Hiking the Inka Trail and visiting Machu are entirely different. You can take a train to Machu and hike up to the Sun Gate that overlooks the ruins. And you can hike up to the top of both Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu. All of these offer amazing views.

If you plan on hiking Inka then I would say adjustable poles are strongly recommended. They make going up and down much easier on the body. (We rented ours in Cuzco for 20 Sol)
Pack light! You can hire a Porter ($50US) to carry 6kg. For the ladies in our group this covered sleeping bag, toiletries, and night clothing. Everything you pack you have to carry with you. I carried a clean set of clothes the whole time (for emergency use), and never thought about using them.
It does get cold at night. The better your sleeping bag, the less extra you have to wear.

Get ready for lots of rice and potatoes... In fact we had a main dish that was only rice and potatoes.

We traveled with some people who had visited both sides to Lake Titicaca. I believe the floating Islands are on the Peruvian side. Apparently some have B&B's on them.

Offline lakelouise02bugeye

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2014, 12:06:34 am »
My roomate is from chile, ill get him to write a list of local suggestions
Farewell :(  Your exhaust was inspirational.

Offline YvanF

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2014, 10:27:25 am »
Where are you landing first, Peru or Chile. Just a warning if you land in Chile theres a head tax for canadians. Its only $50-$100 bucks but if you have the choice, land in Peru first, then bus it to Chile once your done in Peru. DO NOT DRIVE IN PERU.
Shop around for bus companies, they have a crazy range of dirt cheap to nice luxurious (Lazy boy type seats) bus services.Fly from Lima to Cuzco. I bused it, it was 24 hours straight. NEVER AGAIN.

Lima -  Land, and then GTF out. Its a huge city = crime. We spent 3 days there and that was too long. Couple days is good enough. When walking aroundint eh city, don't carry around a backpack or big camera (they target you). Everywhere else in Peru is safe but not Lima.
Cuzco - Great city. Spend more time here. LOTS of different hikes for different levels. There are hundreds of tourist companies that offer a very wide ranges of adventure packages. Shop around. Negotuiate until they get mad. :) They quadruple the price if your white. Spend several days here to acclimatize and don't rush anything until you've acclimatized. Altitude sickness SUCKS.
Machu Pichu: I highly recommend doing it. I really enjoyed it.

Chile: 
Valparaiso is awesome. The rest is just ok.
Santiago has really cool architecture, but its just another big city.
Easter Island - I didn't do it because of $$$, but met a buncha people that said it was worth it.

Argentina
Buenos Aries - Yes yes yes. Amazing city.
Glacier Perito Moreno - Definetly a MUST DO. Love teh Patagonia region. Super cool. Depending on whether your into hiking... Check out El Chaltén and hike Cerro Fitz Roy.

Suggetsions:
Province of Mendoza. Check it our. If your into wine, you will have some fo the best Malbecs of your life here. REally cool
Bariloche: A ture highlight of the trip. Another Patagonian hot spot.

Offline Zaider

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2014, 02:25:29 pm »
Awesome. Thanks for the suggestions/advice so far guys! Keep it coming!

As far as Machu Pichu goes, we'll go there regardless, Im just trying to sort out if I want to put my knee (2 knee surgeries) through that torture. My wife really wants to though, so I'll probably bite the bullet and do the hike. Gotta start training now.

We'll be landing in Peru first and yeah, I dont plan on driving at all while there.

We looked at flights again for Easter Island and found some for $600-ish so its looking more likely that we'll spend a week there.

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Offline Unholysavage

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2014, 02:25:58 pm »
out of those countries, I've only been to Peru (3.5 weeks). I also drove extensively in Peru, from Lima to Cuzco to Lake Titicaca and back.

first recommendation - don't drive in Peru if you can help it.

Lima - I wouldn't spend much time there at all. huge city, full of pick-pocketers. if you spend time there, don't walk around with anything expensive. I drove in Lima, and it's an adventure. I don't recommend it.
I completely agree that flying to Cusco from Lima is the best way to go, followed by tours/modes of travel where locals drive. We drove, and had tons of trouble with our ittshay rental vehicles. the rental car agency also added an additional $10,000US (no lie) to our rental bill after we had flown back to Canada. had we not taken pictures of the vehicles before and after we rented them, showing that they were left in excellent condition, we would have had to pay the scamming bastards. we were also shaken down by police 3 times on the road - twice we had to pay them off or risk losing our vehicles or be arrested, once we were forced to scatter/flee an extremely corrupt officer. not fun, but Peru isn't Canada.

Paracas - the water is cold, but the beaches and sand dunes are really cool to see. we did some sand boarding, swimming, and there are a few neat archeological sites nearby. I'd only do this if you are driving from Lima to Cuzco, but it's worth the stop if you drive down the coast.

Cuzco - awesome city. lots to do, but (as YvanF said) white people pay several times more than locals. negotiate everything, and don't be afraid to walk away. we spent 4 days there, and wish that we had spent more time.

Nazca lines - highly recommend if you have time. we chartered a plane for $100US/person, it's the best/only way to truly see them. several of our group had Montezuma's revenge, which did not work very well with riding in a small Cesna, with no air flow, doing loop-de-loops. you've been warned haha.

Machu Picchu - if there is one thing in Peru that you see, this is it. we initially planned to hike the Inca trail, but heavy rains were the end of that idea. the train was comfortable, and we took a bus up to the Sun Gate. for $5, the bus from the bottom is well worth it as there's a lot of elevation and only takes 10 minutes. up to you. be sure to climb the Huana Picchu spire, as the views of Machu Picchu from there are fantastic!

Lake Titicaca - pretty neat place. if you go there charter a boat out to the floating islands. we didn't stay on them, but wished that we had.

my last recommendation - don't drive in Peru!
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Offline YvanF

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2014, 03:54:22 pm »
we were also shaken down by police 3 times on the road - twice we had to pay them off or risk losing our vehicles or be arrested, once we were forced to scatter/flee an extremely corrupt officer. not fun, but Peru isn't Canada.

Hahaha. I didn't want to scare him and share stories but yeah, police a uckfaying corrupt. It is VERY different then canada and made me REALLY appreciate our system here. Don't rely on them for anything, they will NOT help you.

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2014, 09:23:42 am »
Thanks for the advice everyone.

We've added Columbia to our itinerary because it no longer looks like we'll be able to hike the Inca Trail to get to Machu Picchu. The timing doesn't work out and the limited number of trail permits are sold out until November, which is starting to get into the rainy season. We'll definitely go to Machu Picchu, but we wont hike the trail.

Apparently Columbia has gotten a lot better in the last 10 years and everyone I've talked to who has been there loved it. We're thinking Bogota and Cartagena, with maybe one more place.


Unholysavage - When you chartered the plane for the Nazca Lines, where did you charter it from?
Go home Subaru. You're drunk.
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Offline Fredrico

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2014, 10:05:08 am »
We'll definitely go to Machu Picchu, but we wont hike the trail.

I recommend going up to the Sun Gate (1-1.5hr) or Machu Picchu / Wayna Picchu (2-3hr) to get a nice view of the ruins. You won't regret it.

Offline Zaider

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2014, 10:36:29 am »
I recommend going up to the Sun Gate (1-1.5hr) or Machu Picchu / Wayna Picchu (2-3hr) to get a nice view of the ruins. You won't regret it.

Yeah, I think that's the plan and we'll try to be there as early as possible, but it doesn't look like the 4-day Inca Trail is realistic right now
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audis are disposable suicide machines with 700lb of stupid interior itshay glued to them and 200 more horsepower than it needs so that their owners can never bring on track or drive anywhere more aggressively than a camry except when weaving in and out of traffic and letting the traction control soak up their incompetence

Offline Fredrico

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2014, 12:43:32 pm »
Those are all total hike times (Going up, taking pictures, coming down), so there is still plenty of time to wander the main site.

it doesn't look like the 4-day Inca Trail is realistic right now
Im just trying to sort out if I want to put my knee (2 knee surgeries) through that torture

I think your knees and feet will be thanking you. I was surprised at how hard the downhill was on the knees, and I don't have knee problems.

Perfect example is day 3:
16km total, with 11km being downhill. (That's over 3000 steps!)

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2014, 12:54:20 pm »
Yeah, im sure my knees would have died on that... but my wife was really wanting to do it so I was gonna tag along and tough it out. Not an issue now though.
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audis are disposable suicide machines with 700lb of stupid interior itshay glued to them and 200 more horsepower than it needs so that their owners can never bring on track or drive anywhere more aggressively than a camry except when weaving in and out of traffic and letting the traction control soak up their incompetence

Offline Unholysavage

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #12 on: June 17, 2014, 07:14:24 pm »
I'm pretty sure that we chartered planes right out of Nasca. they were just little Cessnas, with no airflow and 50C inside, but it's the only way to see them. it's a ton of fun as long as your stomach isn't totally FUBAR from South American food (it will be to some extent LOL).
that was 13 years ago, but I've been reading that many people have been able to negotiate flights down into the $50 range in the last couple of years. we apparently really sucked at negotiation haha.
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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #13 on: June 17, 2014, 07:59:47 pm »
Interesting. Thanks. We're just trying to sort out getting to Nazca, staying for a night, and then heading back. Seems like a lot of travel for an hour long flight... but worth it I suppose... :)
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Offline Unholysavage

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #14 on: June 17, 2014, 09:31:05 pm »
no worries. it is quite far from the other highlights, but we drove from Lima to Lake Titicaca (along the coast) so it was somewhat on our way. I don't remember there being much else nearby that was of interest.
be warned that it isn't a "gentle" flight - lots of hard turns at speed. if your stomach isn't 60%+, I don't recommend it. if your stomach is at 20%, which many of my friends were, absolutely don't do it. LOL
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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2014, 12:16:27 pm »
So, speaking with a Columbian coworker, the plan is:

Cartegena - On the north coast, amazing looking place. very hot :) - 5 days
Bogota - 7 days, lots to do
Villa de Leyva - Cool old town with some touring opportunities around there - 1 night
Medellin and the Coffee Growing Region - maybe 2 nights in Medellin and then a few nights in an old Coffee Mansion where we can tour around, taste coffee and see how its grown/made.

All in all, probably about 2.5-3 weeks in Columbia.

Looks like its not worth it to drive in Columbia so we'll probably end up bussing/flying/taking cabs.
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audis are disposable suicide machines with 700lb of stupid interior itshay glued to them and 200 more horsepower than it needs so that their owners can never bring on track or drive anywhere more aggressively than a camry except when weaving in and out of traffic and letting the traction control soak up their incompetence

Offline Zaider

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2014, 10:45:25 pm »
Alright. With more research comes more options... and that certain sinking feeling when you realize you probably can't do everything you want to do.

There's an amazing road called Ruta 40 that goes from the north of Argentina (would start in Salta) to the South (via Mendoza, Bariloche and then ending at Perito Moreno). It's a mix of gravel and paved roads (mostly gravel) and I want to rent a 4x4 (Toyota Hilux) and drive it... spending about 2.5 weeks doing the 3500km trip.

Trying to figure out if its doable and if its even possible to rent a 4x4 for a one way rental... I've sent some emails out.
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audis are disposable suicide machines with 700lb of stupid interior itshay glued to them and 200 more horsepower than it needs so that their owners can never bring on track or drive anywhere more aggressively than a camry except when weaving in and out of traffic and letting the traction control soak up their incompetence

Offline YvanF

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2014, 07:27:23 am »
Alright. With more research comes more options... and that certain sinking feeling when you realize you probably can't do everything you want to do.

There's an amazing road called Ruta 40 that goes from the north of Argentina (would start in Salta) to the South (via Mendoza, Bariloche and then ending at Perito Moreno). It's a mix of gravel and paved roads (mostly gravel) and I want to rent a 4x4 (Toyota Hilux) and drive it... spending about 2.5 weeks doing the 3500km trip.

Trying to figure out if its doable and if its even possible to rent a 4x4 for a one way rental... I've sent some emails out.

Haha, YES!!!! Doooo itttt. Glad you looked into it. Bariloche and Mendoza region were highlights of our families' trip.

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #18 on: June 19, 2014, 08:56:36 am »
Looks like 4x4 rental is available for about $1600 (+ various insurance rates) per week and includes 2800km so that is plenty. It costs an extra fee to do a one-way rental, but i think thats better than spending the time to bring it back.
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Re: Travelling in South America (Columbia, Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #19 on: July 05, 2014, 10:00:21 pm »
Well. Im excited to report that my wife and I have booked our flights and will be gone Sept 10 to Dec 11. I am super excited.

Wanted to say thanks to all those who have offered suggestions on places to go and things to do and to keep the ideas coming. While we've booked our inter-country flights (5 flights for less than $1700), we've still got all the little itinerary things to work out still.
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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #20 on: July 05, 2014, 10:58:21 pm »
WOW! Five flights for that price!!! Well done!!

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #21 on: July 05, 2014, 11:28:46 pm »
Yeah, we were pretty stoked about it. Being flexible on dates really helps.

Calgary to Bogota
Medillin to Lima
Lima to Buenos Aires
BA to Santiago
Santiago to Calgary

Started looking for accomodations as well... looks like BA is going to be pretty great as there are lots of AirBnB places for cheap in great areas.

Last day of work is Aug 15... so soon.
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audis are disposable suicide machines with 700lb of stupid interior itshay glued to them and 200 more horsepower than it needs so that their owners can never bring on track or drive anywhere more aggressively than a camry except when weaving in and out of traffic and letting the traction control soak up their incompetence

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #22 on: July 10, 2014, 01:36:48 pm »
Well. I finally found a place with a Toyota Hilux available and just confirmed the rental for Argentina. Here's the route we'll be taking and our intended places to stop.



and some pictures showing what the road is like... 1500 km :)







The plan is to find a couple spare containers of gasoline because apparently even if a town has a gas station, it might not have gas, so we need to fill up whenever we can, because its pretty desolate. Also, lots of water and spare food in case we get stranded.

Pretty excited about this!
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audis are disposable suicide machines with 700lb of stupid interior itshay glued to them and 200 more horsepower than it needs so that their owners can never bring on track or drive anywhere more aggressively than a camry except when weaving in and out of traffic and letting the traction control soak up their incompetence

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #23 on: July 10, 2014, 02:39:22 pm »
Also, spare tires. plural. Don't know if the roads will be as rough as in Bolivia but uckfay me, we had two flat tires in the row. Needless to say after the second one blew we were forced to wait for a relief vehicle. NOT FUN!

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Re: Travelling in South America (Peru, Chile, Argentina)
« Reply #24 on: July 10, 2014, 02:55:18 pm »
Also, spare tires. plural. Don't know if the roads will be as rough as in Bolivia but uckfay me, we had two flat tires in the row. Needless to say after the second one blew we were forced to wait for a relief vehicle. NOT FUN!

Yes, the truck comes with two spare wheels/tires. But yeah, good point.
Go home Subaru. You're drunk.
Quote from: seat safety switch
audis are disposable suicide machines with 700lb of stupid interior itshay glued to them and 200 more horsepower than it needs so that their owners can never bring on track or drive anywhere more aggressively than a camry except when weaving in and out of traffic and letting the traction control soak up their incompetence