Tired yet? Too bad, there's more work to be done. Now, in your glove box, you should have the controller box with the blue and red plugs plugged in. Next is the wiring portion of this process.
Take the yellow plug cable, and remove the rubber wrap from the other end of it. You'll end up with these wires showing:
As you can see in the background, these are going to the ecu. This part is interestingly difficult. You need to get the wiring diagram for your particular ECU, and it'll show you which wires you need to splice into. You'll see in the picture how I seperated 4 colours. These are the only ones you need. The red is your power wire, and goes to the ignition switch #2 (you'll see this on your ECU/pin out wiring diagram. I would suggest contacting Richard at Aquamist via email, and he'll send you the diagram showing you what needs to connect to what.) The green one goes to the fuel injector pin, the blue goes to the MAP sensor, and the white goes to F/S switch #1. For those of you who are wondering what the hell I'm talking about, here's an example:
Make a bit more sense now? This shows the overall setup, which is nice, and what wire connects to what wire on the ECU. Oh, here's how to get to the ECU:
Pull back the passenger side carpet:
Remove that plate, it's just 3 10mm bolts, and say hi to your ECU:
Take out the two bolts holding it in place, and pull it out for easier access. With this picture, see how the diagram makes more sense?:
Now, splice those 4 wires in, replace your ECU and carpet and voila. You can now plug your yellow plug into the controller box, and you've now got the ECU, FCM, and pump assembly connected. Almost there!
Next is the main power source. That's the small cable that plugs into the controller box and splits into 4 different coloured wires. You can see it in the diagram above as well. The red wire goes to a switched 12V source, meaning a source that only has power when your key is turned. The black and white are grounds, and the purple runs to the head lamp switch (so when your headlamps come on, it dims the gauge. I didn't do this part, so the purple wire isn't connected to anything, meaning my gauge won't dim at night. Big deal, I was sick of running wiring at that point haha.)
Here's where I connected for switched 12V and a ground:
Power:
Ground:
That's the back of the cigarette lighter, and a bolt right behind it. This is accessible by removing the trim piece around the shifter, and an easy place to splice into. The red wire on the back of the cigarette lighter is a 12V source, so splice into it for the switched 12V, and I just used a bolt lcoated by the shifter to ground it. Done and done for your power source.
Now, unless I'm mistaken, you have everything connected! Look at the controller box, you should have the power source wires plugged in, the red plug that runs to the FCM in the engine bay, the yellow plug that runs to your ECU, and the blue plug that runs to your trunk. Now, time to test to see if it works.
Plug your gauge into the controller box, and the remove the lid of the controller box (4 small screws). After you do so, you should be looking at this:
Cool, huh? Alright, now let's start testing according to the Aquamist manual.
1) Insert key into the ignition, do not turn it. Nothing should happen, no lights on the controller box board should light up, and the gauge shouldn't light up.
2)Turn key to the "On" position, DO NOT START the car. At this point, your dash should light up, your radio turn on, all that good stuff. Here's what should happen if you've done everything right:
-The gauge will light like this:
Then like this:
-Look at your controller box, the green LEDs next to the plugs should light up like so:
If this has happened, you're good to start your car! If not, some connection somewhere along the line is wrong. So, start the car. Now, on your controller box, the yellow LEd light next to the yelow plug should be flickering, like so (but flickering, as not shown in the picture):
If this happens, you've successfully wired up your system. Well done! Now, to test the pump. Fill the pump with something, I would suggest water or windshield washer fluid for testing purposes, not your actual water/meth mix. I used water with some windshield washer fluid to make sure it didn't freeze overnight.
You need to look at your controller box, and using needle nose pliers, remove the small covering on the PRK link and move it to the CAL link. Here's what I'm talking about:
See the area in the middle that has a mix of prongs and little black boxes? Each set of prongs is labelled, and those black "boxes" are like fuses, you can remove them and transfer them to another to complete the circuit. These are called "jumpers" (Thanks to GrantC for that) So, you'll remove the jumper from the prongs labelled PRK, and put it on CAL. When you do this, the bars on your gauge should light up like so:
Awesome, that works. Now, remove the jumper from CAL, and place it on TST. Your controller board will light up like christmas, and look at your windshield: Your water jet should be spraying at full strength:
You can kind of see that it sprayed my windshield. You'll notice, trust me. So, remove the jumper from TST and place it back on PRK, which it initially came off of. Next step is to grab your controller box, a small flathead screwdriver, and (refer to the picture above of the controller box board) turn the "THRES ADJ" screw completely counter clockwise. This sets the threshold for your system to its lowest, meaning it'll spray with very little throttle.
