Topic: SpdDmn's 2008 WRB FXT Sports Limited - Let's get this party started!

[GrantC]

Subaru agrees, the 2017 BRZ has "wrinkle red":

[carguyjon]

Wrinkle black looks awesome. Imho, I'd go with that. 

[jellynuts]

Wrinkle black looks awesome. Imho, I'd go with that. 

Totally.  Wrinkle black is timeless.  I can't see that ever going out of style. 

Subaru agrees, the 2017 BRZ has "wrinkle red"

Is that the BRZ STI?  It'd be kind of disappointing to not keep the wrinkle red exclusive... [STI snob talk]

[Canuckrz]

+1 for wrinkle black. It's a classy look.

[GrantC]

Is that the BRZ STI?  It'd be kind of disappointing to not keep the wrinkle red exclusive... [STI snob talk]

Not the STi _At all_, in fact the 2017 GT86 has the wrinkle red too!

[jellynuts]

Not the STi _At all_, in fact the 2017 GT86 has the wrinkle red too!

oh well... I guess we're embracing the culture where everyone is special! Wrinkle red for everyone! Yay!

[Markkenko]

oh well... I guess we're embracing the culture where everyone is special! Wrinkle red for everyone! Yay!

This gave me a good chuckle 

I'm in for wrinkle red or black. I personally dont like the polished look as well.

[WAGOWN]

Awesome forester! Great mods, wicked attention to detail!

My small girly hands can FIT, but have no torque for removing! And threading those things in takes more patience than I've got... Oh, AND, I used to run one step colder copper plugs - so every.single.year.

Ahhhh come on! Spark plugs are easy, even with giant hands, with the perfect combination of:

1. Mastercraft (or equal length) spark plug socket
2. Short ? (I think 1.5 or 2") extension
3. U-joint extension. (Optional)

In that order. With that spark plug socket and the extension there should be *just* enough sticking out to get a socket between the head and the side wall of the engine bay. You can use the u-joint extension to change the ratchet angle. Doing it warm for a comp/leakdown sure does suck though!

15-19 ft-lbs. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten hand tight. Then tighten with a standard socket wrench and additional 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. And for you super anal retentive and smart folks, when using anti-seize compound on spark plugs, you can effectively reduce the torque needed by 1/3, but at these low torque levels it's really not going to matter.

No girl-torque excuses, with the setup I mentioned you can use a ratchet and a breaker bar!

[SpdDmn]

Awesome forester! Great mods, wicked attention to detail!


Ahhhh come on! Spark plugs are easy, even with giant hands, with the perfect combination of:

1. Mastercraft (or equal length) spark plug socket
2. Short ? (I think 1.5 or 2") extension
3. U-joint extension. (Optional)

In that order. With that spark plug socket and the extension there should be *just* enough sticking out to get a socket between the head and the side wall of the engine bay. You can use the u-joint extension to change the ratchet angle. Doing it warm for a comp/leakdown sure does suck though!

No girl-torque excuses, with the setup I mentioned you can use a ratchet and a breaker bar!

Heh, the poor man's u-joint / spark plug socket (at least to get them started!):

[WAGOWN]

Haha what a clever idea!

[Canuckrz]

It also makes sure it won't cross thread, because it will just slip in the tube if it doesn't thread in cleanly and evenly. Even if they're easily accessible like on an inline engine I still start it with the hose if I have one handy.

[deedz]

Awesome forester! Great mods, wicked attention to detail!


Ahhhh come on! Spark plugs are easy, even with giant hands, with the perfect combination of:

1. Mastercraft (or equal length) spark plug socket
2. Short ? (I think 1.5 or 2") extension
3. U-joint extension. (Optional)

In that order. With that spark plug socket and the extension there should be *just* enough sticking out to get a socket between the head and the side wall of the engine bay. You can use the u-joint extension to change the ratchet angle. Doing it warm for a comp/leakdown sure does suck though!

No girl-torque excuses, with the setup I mentioned you can use a ratchet and a breaker bar!

As someone who owns a couple of WRX wagons and Foresters, I can assure you the Forester has tighter access for plug replacement, my WRX Wagon was a breeze, but not the FXT.

[WAGOWN]

As someone who owns a couple of WRX wagons and Foresters, I can assure you the Forester has tighter access for plug replacement, my WRX Wagon was a breeze, but not the FXT.

Ah good call. I've only had NA foresters where the plug sockets are on that nicely accessible angle.

[SpdDmn]

A few overdue updates, so many photos!

22-23 October 2016

Just a few things before heading to SEMA the week of October 29 to Nov 5. Pulled off the intake manifold to sandblast before powdercoating, cleaned up a few bits, installed the Killer B oil pan, baffle and pickup tube.

Also did a leakdown test (too bad we didn't remember to do a compression test before the turbo was out!). Excellent numbers across the board (2% leak on all cylinders), so we'll wait until this engine pops to tear down and fully build it!

Before & after sandblasting the intake manifold:
 

Killer B internals:

[SpdDmn]

20 Nov 2016

Finally got a few more little things accomplished, after a hiatus for SEMA!
Sunday, we did the timing belt service while we're waiting for my intake manifold to come back from powdercoating sometime this week. I was playing with my DSLR, so only a few pics.

Timing covers, tensioner, idler, pulleys, & oil pump removed:


Upgraded to an 11mm GR oil pump. The extra depth will move a small percent more oil.
   

Behind the timing covers and upper cam, there's a second oil feed banjo bolt. We removed the screen inside it, to help prevent oil starvation.
   

All back together with new tensioner, idler, pulleys, and of course belt!


And a little useful bling! Tomei timing belt guide:

[SpdDmn]

3-4 December 2016

My intake manifold and turbo inlet came back from powdercoating! Turned out exactly how I was envisioning:

   



Throttlebody and three bar MAP sensor installed on the intake manifold:


Then back to the engine; IAG TGV deletes installed.


Early Christmas present came in! Super ballin' Radium fuel rails, which I wasn't budgeting for myself (yet), but will complete the setup to run ethanol! Installed with ID1000s:
   

Intake manifold installed. We did the secondary air pump delete, with custom VEX block off plates (little red and black billet pieces on the back of the engine):
   

Test fitting the turbo inlet pipe... Should be able to make it fit, with a little wiggling.. It's 3" diameter, whereas the silicone ones are typically 2 3/4", besides being flexible to squish in!

[SpdDmn]

10 December 2016

Another weekend working away on the Foz (poor Ryan!)

Installed my Perrin EL headers (which I wrapped back in the summer). Plus a block heater, because #dailydriven

   

So I did not realize that you have to clock (rotate and adjust) your turbo hot and cold sides, so that the wastegate actuator arm, the up pipe, and inlet hose, are all correctly positioned. You can see the Turbosmart wastegate actuator so we can run higher boost pressure. We didn't end up keeping the FullRace BOV block off plate (which means I get to run a Tial BOV! waappssshhhh)

   

Ryan started fabricating the custom lines for the turbo; oil feed and drain lines, and coolant. Which I apparently neglected to take any installed photos of!

[SpdDmn]

26 December 2016 - 2 January 2017

Lots of post-Christmas work on the Foz commenced. We literally worked every day this past week, so much work and soooo close to being complete! Ryan did an amazing job on every custom bit on here, and I learned a TON. I'm also an expert at running electrical wire anywhere it needs to go. Seriously, no plastic panel can defeat me

Ryan decided that I should run a Walbro 450 fuel pump so that I can run ethanol in the future without issues. We can also upgrade the injectors without increasing the pump capacity.
*Note to self* There are two 450 LPH models; this is the F90000274, not the F90000267. The 274 has higher internal pressure valving for higher fuel pressure. It also needs higher current for max fuel flow.
SPECIFICATIONS 465 lph @ 40 psi and 13.5V (14.1 amps) in gasoline



Accessing the fuel tank in the back of the Foz was pretty fun... But I did manage not to wreck any trunk foam, or seat carpet! The OEM setup with sock, pump, filter; filter internals. Everything is in line inside the tank, which I guess is easy for installation of the new pump.

      

The new setup. The install kit includes Teflon tubing for E85 compatibility.



A little out of chronological order, I got the upgraded wiring run for the fuel pump a couple days later. It goes from the battery in the engine bay, down along the driver's side kick panel, across the rear seat area (following the gas door release cable). You can see the relay Ryan added in the left side of the photo, which triggers power to the pump. Ground is just in the foreground. Sorry, my electrical knowledge is subpar... I knew I wasn't going to remember this properly!

The second photo shows the red power wire to the fuel pump, alongside the release cable. The white clip with twisted black and white wires is the wheel speed sensor for ABS. The FXT has a male to female connection, and the STI had female to male connector ends... so we ended up with male to male, which doesn't work very well. Spliced in the FXT's female connector.

   

[SpdDmn]

Back to the engine, almost ready to go in!

We put in Denso Iridium spark plugs, then tested for air leaks. A few tiny soap bubbles showed at the throttlebody and TGVs, under 20 psi air pressure.

   

Lastly, Ryan installed my ACT clutch and lightweight STi flywheel. The ACT is SB10-HD-SS which according to ACT's site, means Heavy Duty pressure plate and a Performance Street disc.



And then, the big moment! Engine going back in!

      


Stay tuned!

[deedz]

So great to see all of the progress, and new parts.  When I had my FXT engine out I added the same IAG TGV deletes, grimmspeed phenolic spacers, ID 850 injectors to replace the DW650's, and a Cobb SRI/MAF hose/box to replace the Injen CAI.  I've always been very happy with the quality of all of the IAG parts I've purchased.

Also, glad to see that inline/in tank filter go bye, bye.  I need to do the same thing if I'm keeping my FXT.  Last winter the filter on mine was so plugged that it itshay out the filter casing o-ring.  It happened right when I was doing a pull for a data log, and the car completely fell on it's face.  It was an easy diagnosis as the first thing I checked was fuel pressure and I was down around 15psi

If you don't mind, please be sure to note your experience with the Denso plugs.  I bought have a set on hand, but I ended up installing a new set og NGK's instead.  I was told by a reputable builder that the Denso's electrode can cause issues being so small...

Anyway's this is one of my favorite builds to follow as there a quite a few similarities to my own Forester, yet at the same time there are all the personal differences.  I really need to start a build thread for mine, even though much of it was completed by the previous owner I've still made some performance part changes and added some of my own personal touches. 

Definitely looking forward to seeing this all come together.

[jellynuts]

Oh snap, you running ethanol?  :O  Was this mentioned before? 

Love the wrinkle black. 

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

She wants to leave the option to run ethanol open.

[SpdDmn]

Yeah! It's all ready to go, everything's compatible - it's just a pain in the assay to get it up here. Sunny can tune for it using the Innovate ethanol content sensor.

Really just for the dyno plots, mwhaha!

[SpdDmn]

With the engine back in place, we could get the shifter and tranny back in, as well as hang the downpipe. I got Kartboy front and rear shifter bushings, and TiC shift linkage bushings. Everything but the short shifter - Ryan wants to try the stock tall shifter first, and VEX didn't have any in stock over Christmas (dammit!). I think everyone ever hates installing that rear bushing, but it's so worth it with improved feel/response!

   

Setting the tranny in place, and installed with the FXT tranny crossmember. I just came across this thread from  [MENTION=33080]Team Scream[/MENTION] and am now worried that's not right, although we put the driveshaft in. I'm going to follow up about this..

   

Top view with OEM (FXT?) pitch stop mount. I wasn't around for this custom harness fabrication (better ask what this is too!)


Here's the custom downpipe I wrapped:



We got back to suspension - pulled the coilovers again to install 1" custom billet spacers, then added the Whiteline adjustable lateral links.

   

Here's a (poor) photo comparison of a brand new OE lateral link (black), the Whiteline adjustable one, and my 2004 STI (rusty) one. It's supposed to show that the new OE and rusty STI ones are the same length, while the Whiteline is longer. It seems to have fixed up the positive camber I had going on on the rear wheels, at least!
   

Lateral links installed! We moly-coated EVERYTHING, because Whiteline is so prone to rust

   

We also upgraded the rear subframe lockout bolts:

[SpdDmn]

Christmas break progress - cont'd!

So engine's in, tranny's in, turbo and exhaust are fitted... Now the finer details! We fabricated custom Teflon/SS braided lines for all fuel lines, and ran the electrical wiring for the Innovate 4-way gauge (ethanol content, fuel pressure and temperature, and air-fuel/boost), and the Aquamist water-methanol setup. I was in charge of all running of lines under the dash, since I'm 5'5 and WAY more flexible!

First off, the Aquamist HSF-3!
Thanks to Canonshooter's pics on NASIOC, we decided to re-purpose my washer fluid reservoir for water meth. It worked out pretty well, with only a couple extra "speed holes" to mount the pump. There's lots of room in that area, and the tank holds 1.75 4-gal bottles of methanol. We might have overfilled it, since it started leaking out of the reservoir's seam near the top... not sure if that's a plastic failure, or a design feature.. Once it drained off some, it's been dry and solid!

I'm running VEX's Crystal Methanol at 49% for my setup:



Cleaned up the tank (er, after this pic), and drilled the hole for tank level sensor (failsafe switch if the flow pressure becomes too low):
   

And the outlet from reservoir to pump:


The pump came with a rubber mounted bracket to minimize vibration (and to cover those couple extra speed holes!). You can see the line from the reservoir to the tank here. The outlet line from the pump was run from the fitting (center of the pic) up behind the tank alongside the filler neck:
   

And then the line goes through the flow sensor and high speed valve, which are after that 90-degree fitting.
Aquamist's system (the PWM, "precise water metering") measures exactly how much flow is entering, and how much is required based on fuel flow signal from the ECU. The "fast acting valve" FAV (little black box angled in the pic) gets constant pressure from the pump, which it jets in a quick pulse spray as needed so it can inject the right amount for the fuel flow (more methanol if you're givin' er, or less when you let off the gas).

Kinda hard to see, but we also have an Aquamist high pressure inline filter just before the 90* fitting. We're experimenting with pre-turbo meth injection, so the filter will remove any particulates from the washer tank, before they can clog up the jets.


To the the fuel flow signal, you tap into the factory ECU, going to the Aquamist HFS3 controller box. It's so factory, you can't even see the Aquamist wiring! (It's behind the big factory wire bundle)
   

The Aquamist gets power from a good fused ignition 12v source (again, electrical voodoo....). This is the only pic I really grabbed:


Here's how I ran the Innovate and Aquamist wiring, up under the fender liner. It comes out below the dash near the fuse box in the pic above, and from there I ran them to the center console below the double DIN compartment where the HFS3 controller box is.