Topic: Jackal's Project Bianca (2006 BMW Z4M Coupe)

[jackal]

How did you make the mini-Bianca?

It's a body from Tamiya.I put it on a TT-01 chassis. 

[jackal]

Well the decision has been made.  The plan moving forward is to prep for BSP...  Or more appropriately,  build the car I like and fall assay backwards into BSP.  Why you may ask...  well apparently the stud conversion from wheel bolts is a BSP mod.  I know the club is cool with it and me remaining in stock with studs,  but I'm pretty made up on going wider with the wheels anyway. 

It still bewilders me that this car is omitted from an STU class, considering that a couple year newer 135i with the same block,  and a twin turbo (easily faster than an M) has classing through STU.  Having driven both,  it should really be the other way around if you ask me.

Plan as of now:

Wheel stud conversion 90 mm  (Apex ordered)
Enkei Kojin's 18 x 8.5's and 9.5's
Tires 245/40 and 275/35 Either RE-71's or Dirrezza Z3's
Camber spacer/bolts (home job)
Brake pad upgrade. likely Hawk HP+ (Part#: HB464N.764 front/ Part#: HB518N.642 rear)
Rear Spoiler (APR GTC-200)
Strut Bars

[jellynuts]

Having driven both,  it should really be the other way around if you ask me.

Is it ASN who makes the classes?  Is there anyone you can bring your experience to?

[jackal]

Is it ASN who makes the classes?  Is there anyone you can bring your experience to?

SCCA has been written a few times on the matter.  No Dice.  I will attach the issues later....  their website seems to be struggling at the moment.

[ultimatt]

Back seats probably factor in? Since my car was (and I assume still is) an STU car.

[jackal]

Back seats probably factor in? Since my car was (and I assume still is) an STU car.

I'm not sure.  How do Miata's class? 

On with the preparation for the summers events,  and looking to running my street/race setup.  I decided to run studs instead of the bolts I have been up until now,  but was a little upset with the ones I got.  I'm sure they will work just fine,  but when you pay an exceptional amount for what really just ends up being 20 bolts and 20 nuts,  I'd expect that they would come without the chipped finish,  and covered in some crystalline crap. 

[bigdl]

Man it almost looks like it was used and not a new set

[seat safety switch]

I figured at first that was like a shipping/storage wax but if they're chipped..

[ultimatt]

I'm not sure.  How do Miata's class? 

STR usually I think. Maybe STS for 1.6L ones (if STS is still around even)

13.4 of the Street Rules

"Wheel studs, lug nuts, valve stems (including pressure-relief types), and/or
bolt length may be changed. Wheel bolts may be replaced with studs and nuts
but the number of fasteners may not be changed. Tire pressure monitoring
sensors may be removed."

Other mods may bump you out of ST* or Street, but the stud conversion shouldn't.

[jackal]

13.4 of the Street Rules

"Wheel studs, lug nuts, valve stems (including pressure-relief types), and/or
bolt length may be changed. Wheel bolts may be replaced with studs and nuts
but the number of fasteners may not be changed. Tire pressure monitoring
sensors may be removed."

Other mods may bump you out of ST* or Street, but the stud conversion shouldn't.

That rule was just clarified and rewritten.  Up until a few months ago a bolt conversion would bump class depending on how it was interpreted.

I wrote a letter, but it'll be a few months before a response is printed in Fastrack.

This month's Fastrack contains a response to my letter -- replacing bolts with studs is now explicitly legal in Street:

Tech Bulletins

#20399 Clarify wording on converting wheel bolts to studs
Per the SAC, add as follows to section 13.4:
“Wheel studs, lug nuts, valve stems (including pressure-relief types), and/or bolt length may be changed. Wheel
bolts may be replaced with studs and nuts but the number of fasteners may not be changed.”

[ultimatt]

Cool.

FWIW, I ran studs in Nats a few years back and even the sticklers in Vancouver didn't say anything.

(Note: I was also completely worked by Evos out of the US, and most everyone else.)

[jackal]

Cool.

FWIW, I ran studs in Nats a few years back and even the sticklers in Vancouver didn't say anything.

(Note: I was also completely worked by Evos out of the US, and most everyone else.)

I like to try and be letter of the law.  Of course the fact I'm looking to run a 18x9.5 265 square setup,  I'm in BSP regardless.

[jackal]

So these are the 9.5's I had on the rear of the 135i last year and the year before.  Looks like a set of 4 9.5's are on their way to me now.  Since I can fit 9.5" rims and 265 square on the car....  Why not right?



Just for my own records,  this was the 9.5 with a 255/35/18 on it.  Moving to a 265/35/18.



Plan as of now:

Wheel stud conversion 90 mm  (Apex ordered)  Complete
Enkei Kojin's 18 x 8.5's and 9.5's  Nope
Enkei Kojin's 18 x 9.5 square  Ordered
Tires 245/40 and 275/35 Either RE-71's or Dirrezza Z3's  Nope
Tires 265/35 square RE-71's Set on reserve from Distributor
Camber spacer/bolts (home job)
Brake pad upgrade. likely Hawk HP+ (Part#: HB464N.764 front/ Part#: HB518N.642 rear)
Rear Spoiler (APR GTC-200)
Strut Bars

[10secdream]

Given any thought to trying out the "New" Street Race pads?

http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads

[jackal]

Given any thought to trying out the "New" Street Race pads?

http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads

I'm looking at a couple options right now.  I have a few things that are super important:

-quiet as possible given the type of increased performance I'm looking for
-good grip immediately. Auto-x doesn't give the brakes time to really heat up
-prefer less dust,  but i realize this is part of the game

[jellynuts]

10sec uses CarPro Dlux on his wheels (though he may have found a new product now?) 

http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=43968.0

I applied them on my Works and it cleans them off nicely. Granted, I don't have aggressive pads that make a tonne of dust, but they dust enough.

I'll be honest though, I haven't been diligent in keeping them clean, and by the end of season, they didn't wash off quite as easily.

Maybe a clean and Reload before I put them on this spring will do the trick?

[jackal]

10sec uses CarPro Dlux on his wheels (though he may have found a new product now?) 

http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=43968.0

I applied them on my Works and it cleans them off nicely. Granted, I don't have aggressive pads that make a tonne of dust, but they dust enough.

I'll be honest though, I haven't been diligent in keeping them clean, and by the end of season, they didn't wash off quite as easily.

Maybe a clean and Reload before I put them on this spring will do the trick?

There's a few places that sell BDP in calgary and I feel it's one of those awesome hidden secrets of wheel cleaning.  I can't even begin to explain how well this stuff works.  It even works amazing on Dipped wheels.

https://www.prodip.ca/Brake-Dust-Professional?currency=CAD&gclid=CI-k3Oig2dICFQMJaQodFfULqA

Between the stuff you mention and BDP,  I'm sure the new wheels will remain spotless.

[10secdream]

Using any dedicated wheel cleaner or fallout remover is really going to cut into the grime making them easier to clean. Sonax full effect wheel cleaner is a good product for the price.

As far as protecting the wheels you can use anything you like. I find ceramic coating a set of wheels lasts about a year before you need to reapply the product.

[10secdream]

Best 10 years old sport car today?

[jackal]

Best 10 years old sport car today?

I can attest to this.  I smile more giving it to Biance than I did giving it to Bernadette.

[10secdream]

Notice the big wing as well 

[jackal]

Notice the big wing as well 

I did.  If you go to Drive.com,  they have the whole build and parts listed.

[jackal]

I never updated the look with the new pokies.

Front





Rear

[RedBimmer93]

My, they sure do poke!

[jackal]

Did a little modification to the front suspension in preparing for the wheels and tires (please car gods let them arrive on time). I added in some washers to adjust the camber.

First set the top of the strut to stock.



Gathered the components and calipered them out to try and ensure that each side was even,  and the delta between sides could be sorted through the strut top mount.





After one of the stockers came out.



Stock bolt in the rear,  new in the front with washers.



Stock Max Camber vs Washer Medium Camber.